Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r33 gtst with r32 rb26. motor has been rebuilt in November last year done 1500km since. rego till Sep 09, cost $9500 for rebuild

rebuild involved

arias pistons

billet rods

metal head gasket

N1 oil and water pump

head shaved and valves reseated

block decked

full ballanced bottom end

nismo turbos apparently bigger than N1 $1700

sump buffle,

big dump pipes

SARD fuel reg

bosch 044 fuel pump

car has gtr Dash

coil overs

Running good and 15psi guessing around 300kws at the wheels mayb little less

car needs body work mainly just paint job will need to see to notice

please no time wasters genuine sale

$16500 offers welcome. 0411672105

post-52687-1233831949_thumb.jpg

post-52687-1233832021_thumb.jpg

post-52687-1233832071_thumb.jpg

also has ARP head studs, boost contoller, strut brace, only needs ecu and injectors and this motor will be putting out great power. big stainless steel front mount oil cooler. neg on price need sold buying house got to get rid of personal loan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...