Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just wondering if anyone knows the interchangeability of 32 parts to 34, e.g coilovers, turbo setup, swaybars etc? I think i remember someone saying 32 and 34 are the same in coilovers but 33 is different. any help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256211-r32-r33-r34/
Share on other sites

If you are talking about the GTRs, most engine parts are interchangable, since they all uses pretty much the same engine component.

But suspension wise, I dont think that would be the case. R34 coilover will not fit in a R32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256211-r32-r33-r34/#findComment-4415954
Share on other sites

That's exactly what I've been praying for during my hours of vain research online. I am in the process of upgrading my R32 slowly with various parts and it would make things a hell of a lot easier if I had access to such a database because using parts from other skylines is a little bit tricky.

e.g. My R32 is a gts25 coupe auto. (don't ask me why auto I have very good reasons for that :D)

The box is screwed, the diff is screwed, the engine needs a little freshen up. It currently has the RE5RO1A box (also present in the nissan glorias mated to the V6). They are apparenly weaker than the 4-speed boxes because it is essentially the same box with internals shrunk to fit an extra gear (like the S-15 6-speed boxes suposedly weaker than the previous 5-speed box).

So I am currently eyeing a 1998 R33 RB25DET auto gearbox + driveshaft+shifter+console but I don't know if it'll match the R32 in overall dimensions (speaking of the driveline not the interior bits). I also wonder if the gearbox computers work independently using signals from the engine ECU because I'm sure I would need to swap that also but I don't know how much fiddling I would need to do to match it with the current ECU or if I can even get away with using the current gearbox ECU to control the later R33 gearbox. I know it'd be easier using a R32 turbo auto box but most of them have too many km's on them or have been thrashed or a combination of both (the R33 box I mentioned above came out at 59,000 kms and should therefore be absolutely mint).

This leads to driveshaft to different diffs matching (no idea what's interchangeable between different skyline or other nissan models). The only thing I know for sure in this department is that my half shafts are a 5X1 bold pattern so that narrows things down a little. But this is surely the more simple upgrade assuming I just need to find a LSD from a turbo R33 auto with the 5x1 bolt pattern.

Then I'd like to sort out the rough running of the engine and maybe swap to a bigger block (e.g. RB30) or even just a more recent one (R33/R34 RB25 N/A block?) but I don't know what matches with regards to the oil and water galleries and also internals.

I just went ahead with R34 extractors and front pipe hoping the ports will match (not sure because of the R34's NEO head so once again it's fingers crossed) and I am receiving these goods on Sunday.

Finally, I am waiting on a pair of R32 GTR front struts (was told the fronts fit other R32's and I have a 5 stud conversion kit with the big brakes all rebuilt and painted). As I am also getting some rims next week I wanted to have the suspension setup a little nicer hence the GTR struts hoping it'll sit much nicer but I still don't know how to handle the rear struts (was told by the same guy GTR rear struts DO NOT fit other 2WD skylines -only the fronts-). Which brings me to thinking about upgrading using R33 or R34 factory rear strut combinations (e.g. R33 coupe turbo uprights or R34 coupe turbo uprights 2WD of course or a combination of one model's uprights with the other model's springs, or even use my factory struts but fit springs from a later model to drop the ride just slightly to match the front ride height assuming the front GTR struts will indeed bring the ride slightly lower).

So many questions with difficulties sourcing the answers.

Because there are many aspects covered here, it is hard to decide which section to post it under but since you mentioned the great idea of having a compatibility database in this thread, I put this in here but will also post it elsewhere on a new thread. I think if everyone who has a little experience with such matters chips in, we can slowly build such a database for all of us to refer to and it should have a dedicated sub-forum for quick access. Then the sky's the limit, we can all add information as we go with modifications and keep building the faq that way.

Should I fail to find answers with this post and therefore decide to go ahead with one particular set of options mentioned above, I will post my findings afterwards. I want to get this done by the end of the month, leaving the engine work to last.

Peace

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256211-r32-r33-r34/#findComment-4423367
Share on other sites

That's exactly what I've been praying for during my hours of vain research online. I am in the process of upgrading my R32 slowly with various parts and it would make things a hell of a lot easier if I had access to such a database because using parts from other skylines is a little bit tricky.

e.g. My R32 is a gts25 coupe auto. (don't ask me why auto I have very good reasons for that :D )

The box is screwed, the diff is screwed, the engine needs a little freshen up. It currently has the RE5RO1A box (also present in the nissan glorias mated to the V6). They are apparenly weaker than the 4-speed boxes because it is essentially the same box with internals shrunk to fit an extra gear (like the S-15 6-speed boxes suposedly weaker than the previous 5-speed box).

So I am currently eyeing a 1998 R33 RB25DET auto gearbox + driveshaft+shifter+console but I don't know if it'll match the R32 in overall dimensions (speaking of the driveline not the interior bits). I also wonder if the gearbox computers work independently using signals from the engine ECU because I'm sure I would need to swap that also but I don't know how much fiddling I would need to do to match it with the current ECU or if I can even get away with using the current gearbox ECU to control the later R33 gearbox. I know it'd be easier using a R32 turbo auto box but most of them have too many km's on them or have been thrashed or a combination of both (the R33 box I mentioned above came out at 59,000 kms and should therefore be absolutely mint).

This leads to driveshaft to different diffs matching (no idea what's interchangeable between different skyline or other nissan models). The only thing I know for sure in this department is that my half shafts are a 5X1 bold pattern so that narrows things down a little. But this is surely the more simple upgrade assuming I just need to find a LSD from a turbo R33 auto with the 5x1 bolt pattern.

Then I'd like to sort out the rough running of the engine and maybe swap to a bigger block (e.g. RB30) or even just a more recent one (R33/R34 RB25 N/A block?) but I don't know what matches with regards to the oil and water galleries and also internals.

I just went ahead with R34 extractors and front pipe hoping the ports will match (not sure because of the R34's NEO head so once again it's fingers crossed) and I am receiving these goods on Sunday.

Finally, I am waiting on a pair of R32 GTR front struts (was told the fronts fit other R32's and I have a 5 stud conversion kit with the big brakes all rebuilt and painted). As I am also getting some rims next week I wanted to have the suspension setup a little nicer hence the GTR struts hoping it'll sit much nicer but I still don't know how to handle the rear struts (was told by the same guy GTR rear struts DO NOT fit other 2WD skylines -only the fronts-). Which brings me to thinking about upgrading using R33 or R34 factory rear strut combinations (e.g. R33 coupe turbo uprights or R34 coupe turbo uprights 2WD of course or a combination of one model's uprights with the other model's springs, or even use my factory struts but fit springs from a later model to drop the ride just slightly to match the front ride height assuming the front GTR struts will indeed bring the ride slightly lower).

So many questions with difficulties sourcing the answers.

Because there are many aspects covered here, it is hard to decide which section to post it under but since you mentioned the great idea of having a compatibility database in this thread, I put this in here but will also post it elsewhere on a new thread. I think if everyone who has a little experience with such matters chips in, we can slowly build such a database for all of us to refer to and it should have a dedicated sub-forum for quick access. Then the sky's the limit, we can all add information as we go with modifications and keep building the faq that way.

Should I fail to find answers with this post and therefore decide to go ahead with one particular set of options mentioned above, I will post my findings afterwards. I want to get this done by the end of the month, leaving the engine work to last.

Peace

Oh, and I forgot to mention swap bars also. e.g. would GTR swaybars fit the GTST hubs straightforward, and if not, would it be worth upgrading to GTST sway bars or even ones form later models or other cars such as sylvias etc... that would bolt on. Which cars actually use the same swaybar dimensions and fitment and which ones would represent a worthwhile upgrade i.e. increased stiffness and handling performance through bigger diameter. blah...

Done...for now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256211-r32-r33-r34/#findComment-4423375
Share on other sites

and r32 gtr rears dont fit because they use a U shaped bracket on the bottom whereas the gtst uses an eye... this can be changed if you really want.. but there are plenty of coilovers around for both models.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256211-r32-r33-r34/#findComment-4432208
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...