Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heres a pic of the general area

just want to know what is the best sealent someone said "rtv" wtf is that?

it was a lil moist as its prob coming out of the breather as i had been hway drivng for an hour before hand

yes its a real bad pic sorry

P2100100.jpg

give it a clean and confirm where it's coming from first. It's very unlikely to be the seal between the housing and the backing plate as they don't just start leaking randomly.

If anything it is either the breather or possibly one of the seals on the out put shafts. Also the front section of the housing looks pretty clean in your photos so it sort of points to the breather, and possibly an over full diff.

at a guess 38342.

Bit hard to tell from the diagram. Basically, pop out the out put shaft and there is an oil seal pressed into the housing. It's an item that wears so it's the more likely culprit.

Yep

Easy job, you just have to tap them out with a hammer as there is a circlip holding them in and then you will see the seal.

Rip that out however you can (small flat blade works well enough) and tap in a replacement.

Job done

It's easy enough doing it on the car.

I've done it both ways on different cars. Off car is easiest, however getting the diff off and on is a bit of work on it's own.

On car it's just undo the drive shaft bolts, push it out of the way, dump the oil and pop out the out put shaft

It's easy enough doing it on the car.

I've done it both ways on different cars. Off car is easiest, however getting the diff off and on is a bit of work on it's own.

On car it's just undo the drive shaft bolts, push it out of the way, dump the oil and pop out the out put shaft

ok that sounds good

cant wait to have a go will do it next week with pics

have ordered the seals

ill do it with the diff off as the diff mounting bushes have perished so ill do it all together

what about the abs etc? anything needed to take extra care of?

im sure you need to mark the tail shaft and attach it the same way

just order'd a bunch of seals

may as well make a day of it

both rear diff output seals pn # 38342-n3100

front pinion seal for the rear diff pn # 38189-21g00

front of transfer case seal pn # 33216-05u00

back of transfer case seal pn # 33140-05u00

adds up to around $150 or so

oh and input seal for the front diff pn # c8189-03v00

I wouldn't touch the pinion seal on the rear diff. It's a dissasembly to get to them and then you need to get your pinion pre load right and confirm that the back lash is set correctly. If it isn't leaking, leave it.

I wouldn't touch the pinion seal on the rear diff. It's a dissasembly to get to them and then you need to get your pinion pre load right and confirm that the back lash is set correctly. If it isn't leaking, leave it.

you could just mark where you took it off also and put it back on the same

if the nut goes back to the same spot itll have the same pretension

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...