Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heres a pic of the general area

just want to know what is the best sealent someone said "rtv" wtf is that?

it was a lil moist as its prob coming out of the breather as i had been hway drivng for an hour before hand

yes its a real bad pic sorry

P2100100.jpg

give it a clean and confirm where it's coming from first. It's very unlikely to be the seal between the housing and the backing plate as they don't just start leaking randomly.

If anything it is either the breather or possibly one of the seals on the out put shafts. Also the front section of the housing looks pretty clean in your photos so it sort of points to the breather, and possibly an over full diff.

at a guess 38342.

Bit hard to tell from the diagram. Basically, pop out the out put shaft and there is an oil seal pressed into the housing. It's an item that wears so it's the more likely culprit.

Yep

Easy job, you just have to tap them out with a hammer as there is a circlip holding them in and then you will see the seal.

Rip that out however you can (small flat blade works well enough) and tap in a replacement.

Job done

It's easy enough doing it on the car.

I've done it both ways on different cars. Off car is easiest, however getting the diff off and on is a bit of work on it's own.

On car it's just undo the drive shaft bolts, push it out of the way, dump the oil and pop out the out put shaft

It's easy enough doing it on the car.

I've done it both ways on different cars. Off car is easiest, however getting the diff off and on is a bit of work on it's own.

On car it's just undo the drive shaft bolts, push it out of the way, dump the oil and pop out the out put shaft

ok that sounds good

cant wait to have a go will do it next week with pics

have ordered the seals

ill do it with the diff off as the diff mounting bushes have perished so ill do it all together

what about the abs etc? anything needed to take extra care of?

im sure you need to mark the tail shaft and attach it the same way

just order'd a bunch of seals

may as well make a day of it

both rear diff output seals pn # 38342-n3100

front pinion seal for the rear diff pn # 38189-21g00

front of transfer case seal pn # 33216-05u00

back of transfer case seal pn # 33140-05u00

adds up to around $150 or so

oh and input seal for the front diff pn # c8189-03v00

I wouldn't touch the pinion seal on the rear diff. It's a dissasembly to get to them and then you need to get your pinion pre load right and confirm that the back lash is set correctly. If it isn't leaking, leave it.

I wouldn't touch the pinion seal on the rear diff. It's a dissasembly to get to them and then you need to get your pinion pre load right and confirm that the back lash is set correctly. If it isn't leaking, leave it.

you could just mark where you took it off also and put it back on the same

if the nut goes back to the same spot itll have the same pretension

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...