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I just changed the oil in the soarer to Motul 8100 5-40 and I'm very happy with the results.

Given that it is mainly a street car wtih a bit of track work here and there - $75 for 5L was the sweet spot.

300V Chrono 10w-40 was $110 at Repco for 4L + $60 for another 2L, total $142 for 5L.

For the extra cash and nearly double the money of Motul 8100 - I couldnt justify the extra cost for a street car. The 5w oil should be more street in cold starts and the hot thickness of 40 is the same as the 300v. In addition, at almost the same cost - can drive for twice the kms. One thing that I have noticed in my engines is that its not so much the quality of oil (as long as it is an ester based oil or 100% synthetic) but how often it is changed that matters. I would suggest that running 300V for 10k will wear out the engine more than 2x loads of 8100 every 5k with filter changes.

I also use a motul oil similar to 8100 in the GSXR 1000 when I go track racing without any issues. I would say that the bearing loads on a bike producing 190hp at 14,000 RPM would be similar if not greater than a turbo 6 making 250rwkw+ at 7000rpm. One thing that I have noticed is that after a trackday or two - the genuine suzuki filter has some metal particles in it (probably from the gearbox/clutches) so I always change the filter and top up the oil after every track day.

I will be changing my oil every 5k and filter every 2.5k using Motul 8100 as part of my servicing for the soarer.

When I install the oil cooler - I may extend the oil service interval to 7.5k and keep the filter change every 2.5k and also cut the filters open to see what's inside.

For the RB30 RB26 R32 drifter - Redline heavy shock proof gearbox / diff oil and ill start with 8100 w/oil cooler and perhaps consider 300v if i can get a few more track days out of it and do a filter change every track day and oil change every 4th track day depending on the type of event.

Circuit and hill climb racing will wear the oil out quicker than drifting for example. If I can keep the oil under load at 90-95 degrees the oil will last much longer than at 110 degrees so an effective oil cooler should protect and save expensive oil changes.

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