Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you letting the wolf ecu controll your boost?

If you are a gauge is not necessary, as the wolf will keep it at your desired setting and if something does go wrong i am pretty sure it has overboosting protection.

Personally, i am not into gauges, so i do not see the need for one.

GOOD LUCK with the install and tunning. I have been very pleased with the unit myself. Only one small glitch, i can not keep the engine running with my turbo timer :D, but hopefully that will be sorted soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25772-wolf-question/#findComment-547524
Share on other sites

Cold start and idle are purrrrrring :P

- the problem was a combination of a few things :

1/ Oil was a little too thick on cold start

2/ Was only really bad in winter (cold mornings)

3/ Slight tune adjustments

Now that i have changed the oil, mornings aren't as cold and the tune has been adjusted, the car starts on the first turn (be it a second or two longer than factory).

The solenoid was for the boost, and i have hooked up the factory solenoind again, the wolf just pulses this off and on to maintain the desired psi.

I tried putting a biggish cap. on the ingnition wire to the wolf, to give the timer that fraction of a second longer, but without success.

Display has been mounted where the ashtray was, and the keypad relocated to the glove box. Looks really neat and works a treat :(. Now i have the p.i.n. security code, fully operational ;).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25772-wolf-question/#findComment-548430
Share on other sites

Nice work Al! Love the idea of splitting the unit...

Im fair happy where iv mounted mine though, while iv made it detachable so as not to draw too much attention :(

Last thing i want to do is explain to the next cop what that hand controller is :D

So your using the factory solenoid to control boost? impressive cos we only managed to make it for at 10psi, after that it just wouldnt control boost so we had to installa bleed vavle..now im about to enquire for a 3bar solenoid from AEM

Howd u manage to make the factory solenoid work with the Wolf? was there anything to it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25772-wolf-question/#findComment-548920
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...