Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Well its almost been a year of owning my stag. About this time last year I was hassling Mcnamg for pictures and info of his stag, via PM. I've loved owning the Stagea so much and have made many new friends and gained alot of knowledge on working on cars. First time I ever worked on a car was on the stagea and that was changing the timing belt! and doing 100k service! If your wondering. No this isn't going its time to sell ect ect! The next year will be a bit tighter with cash though as Im going to be a Uni student and not working full time.

'97 s1 silver rsfour, leather, No Spoiler :blink:

In the year I've owned the car ive made the following mods (all i can remember):

  • SAFC2
  • Greedy Profec B spec II
  • Apeix Pod filter
  • Cold air box and Cold air feed
  • Gab Wagon adjusrtable suspension (also tried ohlins)
  • 18" racing hearts
  • Adjustable camber arms
  • Adjustable toe arms
  • 3 1/4" cat back zhorst
  • Hi-flow cat
  • S2 tail lights
  • earthing kit
  • voltage stabliliser
  • HID lights
  • Front Mount IC
  • PWR trans cooler
  • Timer built into alarm
  • Lucas premium front pads

Before I got the car glen had done:

  • Splitfire Coilpacks
  • .8mm gapped platinum plugs
  • clear front and side indicators
  • Alpine headunit and splits

Does anyone have any mods or recommend i do anything in the next few weeks while im still making good $$$. Thinking maybe a gbox service and a shift kit?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258240-its-almost-been-a-year/
Share on other sites

i think your pritty much spot on with a shift kit, if your retaining the auto. the only other things left are a turbo upgrade, abit more involved ecu/piggyback like an EMU, or a manual converstion.

id also look at doing the fuel pump, the one you have is +10yr old. also an ajustable cam gear may give you a gain but there are other things i'd look at first.

i've heard the walbro 500hp intank ones are good unit, apparently there were some dodgy ebay ones getting around prone to failure but if you get one from a site sponser they are ok. you can get the kit for around $195. im looking into getting a new pump soon aswell.

DUMP FRONT IS THE BEST MOD YOU CAN DO and a highflow cat

JJR stainless dump/front heat wrapped and a catco 3" cat

picked up so much response and midrange, standard dump is almost flat over the wastegate area :thumbsup:

DUMP FRONT IS THE BEST MOD YOU CAN DO and a highflow cat

JJR stainless dump/front heat wrapped and a catco 3" cat

picked up so much response and midrange, standard dump is almost flat over the wastegate area :thumbsup:

i agree. it just helps the engine and turbo breathe so much more. you can feel staight away how much better the car goes with them.

Just got a qoute on a shift kit, looking at $450 drive in drive out.

Funny you say that. Did the dump/front on a mates and he said he noticed the catback alot more. :S

i did do my cat too...

its a different sort of change, eg, when it coasts for longer when you lift off, less throttle to maintain speed on the fwy, builds boost quicker on the fwy

i then felt a little loss of response when i did my FMIC

upping the boost when i have the motivation to install my EBC.

FWIW I paid 395 drive in/out for my shift kit

ah Im going to grab a cheap $40 adjustable one (s13) and drill the ring connectors to suit :D

fmic looks funneh, should photo it.... no camera tho, soz. sitting under the reo bar - big :) no more spotties and cut the bottom dayz lip off ooops

ah Im going to grab a cheap $40 adjustable one (s13) and drill the ring connectors to suit :D

fmic looks funneh, should photo it.... no camera tho, soz. sitting under the reo bar - big :) no more spotties and cut the bottom dayz lip off ooops

camera phone and MMS to your e-mail addy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...