Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I looked at another Stagea today RS Four S and its got the rust under the side mirrors. I don't mind buying it and fixing it but i need to know as soon as possible:

A) How much will it cost too fix?

B) How much work is involved?

C) Will it be a straight forward job?

D) Have any of the Brizzy Boys got this done?

If so who did they get to do it?

And were they happy?

Edited by mattye

ive had a bit of a look into this.

A) around $400 i was quoted roughly

B) Pretty easy fix relatively speaking (not highly structural and usually small and surface) - best to do it asap

C) most cases, a qualified professional will consider it to be an "easy task"

D) not in brizzy

panel shop will do it if it is not too bad, alot of places dont deal with rust because they are mostly insurance mobs.

providing it is not too deep, it can be rubbed back, treated, bogged and sprayed rather easily.

put some kill rust or fish oil on it in the mean time to stop it getting far worse.

it is hard to find a stagea recently imported free of rust in this location, every one i saw had it, some worse than others.

ensure there is limited rust elsewhere and in non structural locations.

mine has rust but the rest of the car is perfect!

So I looked at another Stagea today RS Four S and its got the rust under the side mirrors. I don't mind buying it and fixing it but i need to know as soon as possible:

A) How much will it cost too fix?

B) How much work is involved?

C) Will it be a straight forward job?

D) Have any of the Brizzy Boys got this done?

If so who did they get to do it?

And were they happy?

It is a design fault. Fix asap. Remove door cards, mirror, piece of foam that collects water and makes it rust. Preferably weld in steel to fix hole. Replace foam with stuff treated with a waxy water resistant product. Had to do it to both my Stageas about $400 for two doors. Get a few quotes from panel and paint shops because some of them don't like doing small non-insurance jobs like this and will quote very high. Will be better than new when finished.

Thanks heaps guys. Yeh there is only rust here and theres a bit under the seal for the hatch. Their all not realy too bad. Otherwise its good. Its a pearlesant white one, will they be fine colour matching? In essence its so small a spot that you probs wouldn't notice if it wasn't a perfect match.

It is a design fault. Fix asap. Remove door cards, mirror, piece of foam that collects water and makes it rust. Preferably weld in steel to fix hole. Replace foam with stuff treated with a waxy water resistant product. Had to do it to both my Stageas about $400 for two doors. Get a few quotes from panel and paint shops because some of them don't like doing small non-insurance jobs like this and will quote very high. Will be better than new when finished.

Where would I get the new foam from?

Would the pannel shop organise that? (if i ask them to)

RBPOWA: Yes, I have the strut tower rust as well: apparently it's cosmetic, but I will be getting it sorted asap nonetheless...

mattye: I recently had the rust from my mirrors fixed: I had to buy a replacement drivers door skin, and they only fixed the passenger door because the doorskin was proving too difficult to source. My car is also Silky Snow (pearl white), and I would challenge anyone to pick where the paint was blended: you cannot tell the difference between original and resprayed, so you should have nothing to worry about, so long as you use a competent spray shop...

Some time this year, I'm planning on replacing both doors with new ones - the price is higher than the repair/respray route, but I'm hoping that it will last better in the local climate.

The price was around $650 each for new ones.

Some time this year, I'm planning on replacing both doors with new ones - the price is higher than the repair/respray route, but I'm hoping that it will last better in the local climate.

The price was around $650 each for new ones.

They will rust just the same as the old ones because of the way water gets trapped in them. If you get yours repaired properly i.e. steel welded in and the foam replaced with stuff treated with the waxy anti -water stuff (sorry don't know the technical term for it) they will be better than new for 1/4 of the price.
mattye: I recently had the rust from my mirrors fixed: I had to buy a replacement drivers door skin, and they only fixed the passenger door because the doorskin was proving too difficult to source. My car is also Silky Snow (pearl white), and I would challenge anyone to pick where the paint was blended: you cannot tell the difference between original and resprayed, so you should have nothing to worry about, so long as you use a competent spray shop...

Why did you have to replace the door skin? I assume you mean the inside trim. Whats one worth?

They will rust just the same as the old ones because of the way water gets trapped in them. If you get yours repaired properly i.e. steel welded in and the foam replaced with stuff treated with the waxy anti -water stuff (sorry don't know the technical term for it) they will be better than new for 1/4 of the price.

I hear what you're saying, my concern is that the drivers' door has flaky rust on the inside a good 50mm lower than the 'shelf' that the mirror fits into. The repair shop that I went to were quite honest in saying that they wouldn't be able to fix it to the standard that they'd like. The passengers' door isn't as bad, so a repair there may work just fine.

(I'm also going to get the roof resprayed, as it has some rusty stone chips on it)

I'm still considering my options, but either way the door hardware will get modified to significantly reduce the likelihood of it recurring in the future. That in conjunction with the fact that it never bloody rains here anymore should do the trick! :)

theres a little sponge behind the rust, if you pull it apart you can see it and when it rains or gets washed it fills up... im guna take mine out and spray it with a rust disolver for now, may get it looked at later... but thats if its worth it.... on my strut towers ive got like dots in a direct line, about 5mm wide circles, 10mm apart its really weird.

Why did you have to replace the door skin? I assume you mean the inside trim. Whats one worth?

I mean the outer door skin: the painted metal part that the outside door handle sits in. Harveys Smash in Nerang did mine, and guaranteed me that they won't rust again. Not sure what the cost was, because I repaired the other door, removed the roof rails, some badges, had aftermarket mirrors fitted, colour coded the side/bumper strips (s1 ones were silver), and got a 1/2 respray at the same time... I can tell you they're not cheap, but their work is faultless.

yeah engine bay isnt consistant, here i used Cutters (cut and polish shit) to remover the brown stain for a show and shine, this is before look
Engine bay looks good. I see you have cable ties to hold the snorkel. Mine came without the two black buttons as well ... i found it OK with only the bonnet to keep it in place.
Engine bay looks good. I see you have cable ties to hold the snorkel. Mine came without the two black buttons as well ... i found it OK with only the bonnet to keep it in place.

Lol, one of those plugs was broken on our car too - I used to give my wife grief about how fast she drove it as the plug would always end up on top of the air filter after she had the car for a drive.

(Or so I said!)

Adam, can you post pics of the rust in your engine bay - it sounds quite strange...

kk. I haven't heard of that geting done before. Did you just source the skin from Nissan?

Absolutley no idea, sorry: I dropped the car off rough and picked it up 3 weeks later looking almost brand new...

washed the stag today and found a rust bubble on the pass side under the mirror, only small one, it wasnt there last weekend, ill be pulling the door card off 2moz and spray some rust stop in there to see if i can stop it getting worse. can i remove this spong/rubber peice and leave it out?

anyone got pics of inside the door to show what were all looking at, if not ill get some pics 2moz when i do it after work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...