Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

True that, but beggers can't be choosers right now. I'm after a quick fix of boost :)

TITAN and Cejay are right, that turbo (JJR480) looks to be a re-badged KKR480. Some people swear by these turbos but for reliability, response and overall performance they are second rate turbos. ;)

If I'm correct the KKR turbos are bush bearing, whereas the higher end brands like Garret, HKS etc are nearly all ball bearing - meaning quicker response (less lag) and better all round power delivery (not to mention reliability).

If you arent planning on keeping the Skyline then go for it, but if you want something that will last as long as the car you cant go past Garret, HKS, Trust etc... They may cost more initially but if they are installed correctly with decent boost control you wont have to replace them for a long time.

"Do it once, do it right".

You don't want that 3082. massive compressor and a tiny exhaust housing you would be better off for you power goals with a 3071R or 3076R both with a .82 rear.

Ok guys, you've talked me out of going with the cheapo JJR one, thanks :D

Whats the consensus here about highflowing my stock turbo? how much and is it worth it??

Also whats the general consensus on TiTAN's comment on the 3082 turbo?? it sounds alright to me, but what would i know :wave:

Thanks again guys for your input, look forward to meeting you all in the near future.

On another note, I've got a power steering leak, i figure its through the main hose that comes out of the bottom, I hear its a common problem that they heat/swell up and crack, has it happened to anyone else?? Anyway, I just ordered that part from Nissan in Belconnen (Lennock motors) and the bastards charged me $95 for seriously that 30cm hose!! WTF.... anyway, thats my little rant. But I guess I have no option.... :P ...was gonna get a generic hose but it'll probably end up kinking cause theres a few turns in it.

TITAN is right... I really just posted that link because its a good price.

If you want response and decent power, go for a GCG GT30/71R bolt on kit - perfect for smaller capacity engines up to 240 - 250rwkw.

Ballbearing turbos are heaps responsive, just be prepared to pay for it.

Call up and get a quote for a highflow, a few years ago it was $600-$700.

BTW, Do you have a RB20 or a RB25? I'd probably agree with a GT30/71R if they were your choices....

to hiflow a rb25 turbo was $2000+ from gcg. rang them this morning. an rb20 one was $19xx last time i rang. i have a gt3071r for rb20/25 and nessessary parts to go with it in my room. clutch, cam and gears, injectors. all unused.

any turbo that big would be overkill for 180-200kws and would be stupidly laggy on the 20 motor, and the turbo on the forums was full boost at 5000 rpm :down::)

An Hks GTSS or 2530 (2510 would be perfect, but if I find one I'm buying it) would be perfect for a little over 200 (230 tops) but full boost is around 3500, and they bolt straight on. most of garrets smaller turbos are t2 flange and are designed for SR20 and ca18's, so don't even bother with them.

You should also keep in mind that with a stock turbo with no boost(10psi), a tune and just a few other normal mods(turbo back zorst and intercooler, I made 170 rwkw, and if you put an rb25 turbo on, you should make 180-190rwkw+ with a tune, zorst and intercooler and a bit of boost (12psi)

BTW I have a RB20 and Im sticking with it. I love the eagerness and the revs. I compete in motorkhana's, so I really need the response and I wouldn't consider anything larger than the HKS turbo's

-Reece

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...