Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About 8 weeks ago I posted up some dyno sheets of my car with a td06h-20g (16cm^2 exhaust housing). It made 344hp @ wheels with a very ugly power curve due to still running the stock computer. Well its been in again and come out with a wolf3d ecu. Peak power is down, infact we had to run slightly more boost to achieve the same power level (albiet 4.5hp down). What you can see from the before and after graphs is a huge increase in midrange torque and hp (80hp at one point on the curve). The turbo comes on quicker and the power delivery is silky smooth. I am a bit disappointed that the car didnt make 370hp, I thought it would do it easily, but the car is so much better and faster to drive now. It looks like I'll be changing the exhaust manifold definately now, not sure when just a matter of time, as two bolts have been spat out already and it will sag and start to leak at some stage. Hopefully with the better flow of a tubular or tuned length manifold we can sneak more ignition timing into the top end (we had to pull a fair bit out to stop it pinging) to make up some lost HP. I'm also thinking about a cam gear at some stage too. About the only thing left to do would be upgrade the internals, but thats a long long time off if ever, I've already spent bigtime (may not be bigtime to some people :) ) on the bolt on engine bits.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26049-td06-stage-2/
Share on other sites

Great result. One question though, if it could make that peak on the stock computer and lower boost, why couldn't it make it on the new computer. Was that level of power only possible when the engine was running dangerously lean or something? It just doesn't seem right to me. If anything it should be more since you're running more boost. The only way I can possibly think this could happen is if the level of boost you're running is out of the efficiency range or your intercooler isn't up to challenge - both of which I doubt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26049-td06-stage-2/#findComment-552188
Share on other sites

Look at the boost graph and see where the power dips and then spikes unbelievably at the top end (that is the run just after the turbo got put on), we think the stock ecu was pulling a heap of timing out in the midrange where it dipped badly and then stuffing a shitload in to make it spike like that, I was also running the stock fuel pump (got changed a few days after) and it was very lean at that point I cant remember exactly but it was somewhere in the high 12's to 13 afr... very dangerous :) After putting in the bosch 910 pump the afr's got rich again and power dropped to 322hp on 12psi, now its tuned with 15psi making 339hp. As i said it would seem the exhaust manifold is holding up my flow and it will be replaced when the starts to leak, with the better flow maybe we can make another 15-20hp :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26049-td06-stage-2/#findComment-552210
Share on other sites

what AFRs are u running now on 15psi??

if it is running richer than what it was before, that would explain why you're down on power 'cos the leaner u run the engine, the more power u can make but at the expense of reliability.

Also, as sydneykid would say, it's not about the peak hp, it's about the power under the curve (average power).

all in all, it's a good effort dude, happy driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26049-td06-stage-2/#findComment-552382
Share on other sites

That power curve looks soooooo much better than before. Looks like it would be a bit of a weapon now, before it looked like a big laggy stip monster:D (didnt want to say so before:p please dont take offence)

Anyways, enjoy the excellent result, as I am sure you will.

I dont know if you saw the posts by BOOSTD, but he got an extra 13rwkw top end, and he believes around 20+ midrange, with boost starting 300rpm earlier from an adjustable exhaust wheel - definately worth a look in, and relatively cheap;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26049-td06-stage-2/#findComment-552417
Share on other sites

That would explain it :P

As Steve said, it looks like a real weapon now. I'd be VERY happy with your results. Also having it tuned properly means it's more reliable, which is the most important thing I think (I say this knowing that my car probably isn't too reliable - 1 bar on the stock turbo :) )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26049-td06-stage-2/#findComment-552491
Share on other sites

I have been for a ride in the car with the old and the new computer, and I can say that the car now is a 100% improvement on the old power curve. The power feels so much stronger down low, and keeps pulling all through the rev range.

Top end power is nothing compared to the extra power under the curve:D I think getting rid of the stock manifold would be a huge help to making more power at the same boost level.

Rob, I look forward to having a race against you in the near future:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26049-td06-stage-2/#findComment-555872
Share on other sites

RedLineGTR, Rob's car is definately a mile up on power.

Who cares if you loose a few kw at the top end - how many people bounce redline in every gear when they drive? The only thing that is good for is winning dyno comps. The mid range is sooo much meatier, which is where the real performance is esp for a streeter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26049-td06-stage-2/#findComment-555895
Share on other sites

4.5hp is 1.3% variation on the old power level. taking into account the temps have been warmer and most of the tuning time is spent on the midrange, since the peak power is plenty for the stock injectors and so on i doubt they would have tried too hard on that end for good reason.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26049-td06-stage-2/#findComment-555955
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...