Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy im a simple red P plater i have always dreamed of having a nissan skyline R32 gtst coupe i was wondering if you all could help me out i need just a stock R32 real cheap less than 5K willing to go as far as 7K minding you all im red P plater so no mods turbo or exhaust system etc. i want one to build up with no major problems and it runs no problem.

Im not looking right this min im just seeing how much roughly i am looking at so if you guys could tell me the best place to find a dirt cheap one or just tell me how much youse would sell your baby's to a loving new home.

Thanks :( ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260536-help-me/
Share on other sites

I would think if you find one "dirt cheap" that it's cheap for a reason... unless you happen to come across a desperate sale for whatever reason..

Just keep an eye out on here and carsales.com.au and see what comes up, it will give you an idea on prices for a stock one too so you can see what the markets like for them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260536-help-me/#findComment-4470203
Share on other sites

try 7-10k mate.. that should net you a reasonable one.. a gtst is the turbo model.. the one you want is a gts, which is the non turbo variant.. but id wait until you can get a gtst.. there are better cars to get on your p's and you have to learn to crawl before you can walk.. honda's are unreal little naturally aspirated cars... the engines scream and are reliable as..

r32s are a great car... i have one... but they are 15 - 20 years old now and things are falling apart and failing from years of thrashing.. you will have to spend money on it and it will fail every now and again... its not really worth spending money on a gts.

for the price of an r32 gts... you could have a 1990 honda civic... with a rebuilt b16a.. it would tromp just about anything.. its all about power to weight, and traction.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260536-help-me/#findComment-4471815
Share on other sites

yeah i would give an r32 gts a big miss....you may as well just get a gts-t and not fool around....they just come under the power to weight limit for P platers.

Under new legislation in Victoria, new P platers cannot drive any form of turbo car.

As for $5 - $7k budget, unless you want an auto gts then you are only going to get one at that price if it is a piece of shit... and if it were me, I would not pay money for a piece of shit cause shit is not nice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260536-help-me/#findComment-4477254
Share on other sites

yeah i would give an r32 gts a big miss....you may as well just get a gts-t and not fool around....they just come under the power to weight limit for P platers.
Under new legislation in Victoria, new P platers cannot drive any form of turbo car.

As for $5 - $7k budget, unless you want an auto gts then you are only going to get one at that price if it is a piece of shit... and if it were me, I would not pay money for a piece of shit cause shit is not nice.

hang on, im confused............

i was certain...ALL turbo cars are prohibited.......

and theres people saying that some fall BELOW the restrictions like an R32 GTSt???

stupid laws

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260536-help-me/#findComment-4477459
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...