Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how much do you think this 1997 white in colour R-33 GTS-T S2 is worth??

*75,000kms.

*5 speed Manual.

*17inch ssr wheels (some scratches) with new tyres on the rear, and about 90% tread on the front.

*After market GTR front bar.

*Standard Side skirts.

*catback Jasma 3inch exhaust.

*Pod filter

*Blitz turbo timer

*1 year registration to next year...

its in very good condition...immaculate interior...Please let me know what you think.

Thanks alot, Tarek.

Hey Josh33...thanks heaps for the link man...yeh ur right thats about the average price...although all the ones with higher Kms are worth about 10k...anything with low kms and later model is worth a good 12-13k according to what i have seen from the link you posted...

is there a Difference between the 96 and the 97 models???

thanks R32line...i think so as well...in a previous post Josh33 posted a link, and all the late model R33's with low kms are at least 12-13k...

do you know any differences between the 96 and the 97 model at all?? thanks alot

awesome, i didnt want to brag on about it...but i think its one of the cleanest out there...im glad you said it 1st, i think its worth a good 12k...lol thanks heaps mate!!! its my car, im just getting peoples thoughts about it...

so u reckon the only difference between the 96-97 is the ABS! how about the 40th anniversary, are they all 97 and onwards??

awesome, i didnt want to brag on about it...but i think its one of the cleanest out there...im glad you said it 1st, i think its worth a good 12k...lol thanks heaps mate!!! its my car, im just getting peoples thoughts about it...

so u reckon the only difference between the 96-97 is the ABS! how about the 40th anniversary, are they all 97 and onwards??

Sold my car for 11K, last November it has done 104K. it was Silver S2 1996. S2 Options were Passenger and driver air bags / ABS.... i think 1997 model had red stitching on the steering wheel (i am preety sure).

You car is worth more than 11K i think personally. but there so many S2 for sale and someone is always desperate to sell and buyer know THAT !!..

Good Luck and be patient, you going to get some wired offers along the way...

ok cool, thats not bad, fairly reasonable considering it had 104k kms...yeh mine has the red stitching, lol i just checked it out and i had no idea...hehehe thanks alot maclarenf1...at the moment im not in a hurry to sell at all, although if i do get any offers i might consider them...i would be happy with 12k the car is immaculate inside out with a full year rego...once again thanks heaps man!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...