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Only selling because ive bought a new daily and need space on my driveway :P

This was a complete granny spec bluey in jan 2008 with 1 owner. It has just been built up since august and has done SFA kms since.

Ca18det

new rebuilt cyl head

ca16 inlet cam

adjustable cam gears

550cc injectors

Z32 air flow meter

Brand new genuine oil pump

stainless manifold & external gate

2510 ball bearing turbo

custom stainless dump pipe

custom stainless cooler piping

450 x 300 x 76 FMIC

Butterflys taken out of intake runners

full remap ecu

Vl turbo high press pump + peirberg low press pump

custom surge tank

greddy catch can

Bottom end just rebuilt by Milton engines

chrome rings

acl race main & rod bearings

blueprint grind and balanced crank shaft

Lightened flywheel

800 pound carbonic clutch

Rb20 clutch slave

new pbr clutch master cyl

Tein hr coil overs on all 4 (s13)

sr20 hubs brakes & calipers

R31 sway bar

whiteline strut brace

10 bolt welded diff

sparco 17inch rims with near new rubber

Nardi steering wheel

full set of VDO electronic gauges

Making over 200 rwkws...

15 gs spent!!!

7500 FIRM

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  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Thanks for documenting the process.
    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
    • Take the fall as a warning sign for future endeavours  Stay safe mate
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