Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Josh seeing as though your such a fountain of knowledge today . . . IYO whats the best place to get a 3"cat (doesnt matter about highflow as im just gona gut it anyways) and a set of adjustable camber arms for the rear of the 34?

thought you didn't want a cat?

Josh seeing as though your such a fountain of knowledge today . . . IYO whats the best place to get a 3"cat (doesnt matter about highflow as im just gona gut it anyways) and a set of adjustable camber arms for the rear of the 34?

Ebay/boost/SD/SAU for a 3inch cat... I mean by all means buy a new one and gut it, or just pay bugger all for a 2nd hand 3inch one. There are rubbish 3inch cats (new) on ebay, that blow the core out pretty quick, maybe just pick one of those up... Not that Im condoning a gutted pussy.

Pretty sure Taz was able to get arms?? Both China and none China. Whiteline Rear arms are cheap these days too.. I am a big fan of some of the Australian made arms at the moment..

If you have the budget, ikea formula no questions asked.

oh and 7weeks to do timing belt and water pump and new thermostat..

ill be driving it tommorro wwhen the wheel allignment is done..

so we're on for tmr night, wraith?

thought you didn't want a cat?

I dont but I want it to look like I have one ;)

legalities maybee??

:D

Ebay/boost/SD/SAU for a 3inch cat... I mean by all means buy a new one and gut it, or just pay bugger all for a 2nd hand 3inch one. There are rubbish 3inch cats (new) on ebay, that blow the core out pretty quick, maybe just pick one of those up... Not that Im condoning a gutted pussy.

Pretty sure Taz was able to get arms?? Both China and none China. Whiteline Rear arms are cheap these days too.. I am a big fan of some of the Australian made arms at the moment..

If you have the budget, ikea formula no questions asked.

Ok thanks ill check it out

No doubt.. As long as he sticks a bit of pipe through it, to stop turbulence inside the shell it'll be like not having one at all.

:)

could not believe danski actualyl asked that question

its true.. EFI has brain washed him..

*sigh

thast right boy..sigh all you want..

i blieve i chatted with you regarding ur shit on thursday night..

when ur shopping trolly blew off a pipe!

My shopping trolly? ? ? I wish . . . .

@Dan yeah bro you don't need proper motor sport semi slicks since your car will never see the track. Those federal semi slicks or Khumo KU36's will be perfect for you, and much cheaper (y)

@Dan yeah bro you don't need proper motor sport semi slicks since your car will never see the track. Those federal semi slicks or Khumo KU36's will be perfect for you, and much cheaper (y)

Yeah agreed.

@Dan yeah bro you don't need proper motor sport semi slicks since your car will never see the track. Those federal semi slicks or Khumo KU36's will be perfect for you, and much cheaper (y)

Are they ok in the wet?

Are they ok in the wet?

I had the kumho Ku36 on the rear of my other rims, they felt the same in the wet as the road tyres I had on b4 (useless....lol)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...