Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

is the 32 running sweet now?

Running peeeeeeeeeerfect. I want to keep it, but the honest reason is work has said no way. There is some movement in $6850, Im sure as hell not wasting my time running around for a RWC at that price though.

Could be? Im sure he'll chime in.

Basicaly just need it gone, great little runner after selling a kidney to bring it up to spec too.

How much u get for your kidney?

How much u get for your kidney?

Enough to bring the maintenance up to spec on my R32 and go a little OCD on replacing things that didn’t need to be done right now, but wanted to so some little in-grade didn’t whine 6 months after buying my car.

Enough to bring the maintenance up to spec on my R32 and go a little OCD on replacing things that didn't need to be done right now, but wanted to so some little in-grand didn't whine 6 months after buying my car.

Hahaha

told you josh keep it and then turn it in to a track car.

Work > Cars

Too busy to muck around with playing "track racing".

Good road car doesn't make a good track car and a good track car doesn't make a good road car. Need a good road car for work, so.. Life be like :laugh:

obviously..

but i said track car as in slowly over time.

a) where would I keep it

b) When would I use it (working 6 days a week is a good week for example..)

etc

In an ideal world, your plan would be great. I live in an unside down world.

A,) Daddy's house?

B.) Over time when it is acutally completed then you can ask that again

I am the same as you and i still manage it

a) He already has two cars. No where to leave it.

b) why hold onto something long term, when I can turn that 6k - 7k into 14k over the time it would take me to finish it, not to mention ever use it.

Why on earth would you IMPORT a friggin skyline when they are cheaper to buy here. Thats a fact.

R33's are a buyers market.. You can get them with coolers and exhausts for 5 - 6k with rego

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...