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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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Ah that would explain the flooding.. Thanks for the heads up

Just make sure you don't mount it too close to the anchor coz the chain could drag it down

No real tug feast, Dan is offering advice. This is a forum after all. Not sure if your post was meant to be directed at me or not??

I personally destroyed the brand of clutch in question; I was ripped off and taken on a wild run by the company. I will continue to voice my hate for as long as I can.

I will keep on telling people to steer clear of said brand. There is a fine-line with what I post, I can get away with what I say Re: this clutch as it did in fact happened. I figure, I am offering my 2cents on said brand.

Having driven on an array of singles, OS twins, NPC rebuilt twins and a few Japanese triple plates and a triple plate rebuilt by NPC to twin plate spec.

A 3puck is one of the worst clutches I have ever driven on, as already stated. It has limited streetabilty, it’s costly on driveline as well as hard on driveline.

Tas did the right thing and sold Tristan what he wanted, Tristan wanted a “drift” clutch – However, his application could have been better look after with better options – Again, he wanted a drift clutch and that’s what he got.

Spoken for truth young Joshwaaaa. I know you had a better run from the JB job than I did but a 3 puk clutch for street with the occasional drift session will get old very quickly.....and literally.

Spoken for truth young Joshwaaaa. I know you had a better run from the JB job than I did but a 3 puk clutch for street with the occasional drift session will get old very quickly.....and literally.

Just luck of the draw. I got a good one/lucky one. I would hate to think what could have happened if I didn't. Worst case, could have lost a leg.

No real tug feast, Dan is offering advice. This is a forum after all. Not sure if your post was meant to be directed at me or not??

I meant Tristan. Everyone wanted a piece of him, and I didn't want to be left out!!!

Come to the beat with me?

Of course darling <3

Man. Seriously keep it to PM

NEVER!

Make my rb-bucket go quicker. This little sliding performance hiflow they rave about on here isn't that impressive on my noob-rig

What sort of coin you got? How much hp you want? and what do you want to use it for?

What sort of coin you got? How much hp you want? and what do you want to use it for?

hes flat broke, he wants a gazillionty killer wasps so he can street race.

And he wants frangi's on the back window.

What sort of coin you got? How much hp you want? and what do you want to use it for?

Sunday arvo sprints. I couldnt care less if I rank in the bottom 10, I'm after consistent times. Im also looking at doing Mt cotton next year.

I already have another turbo back exhaust here and im going to buy a trust cooler in a few weeks.

Thinking:

- fuel system

- cam gears?

- ECU? Dr Drift chip??

- Clutch

I would like to think I could get around 220rwkw, around $2k on the 4 points above, more if full ECU

Sunday arvo sprints. I couldnt care less if I rank in the bottom 10, I'm after consistent times. Im also looking at doing Mt cotton next year.

I already have another turbo back exhaust here and im going to buy a trust cooler in a few weeks.

Thinking:

- fuel system

- cam gears?

- ECU? Dr Drift chip??

- Clutch

I would like to think I could get around 220rwkw, around $2k on the 4 points above, more if full ECU

Have a yarn with zenon Josh, Thats about where he's at with some carefully thought out spenshun mods and he has a ball in that flat capper of his.

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  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
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