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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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Have a yarn with zenon Josh, Thats about where he's at with some carefully thought out spenshun mods and he has a ball in that flat capper of his.

Yeh might hit him up. My teins gotta go! no question there. Dont even think they are worth trying to save with less silly spring rates in them

T51Z on a stock rb20, and then change the timing belt.

and then fit a new intercooler.

then some more parts.

then wait a couple weeks

RB24 is a waste of time.

Plenty can be done with the RB20. Need to spend a bit on cylinder head work though if you want the numbers and torque.

Leave the bottom end for now, take off the head and put on a pre-ported one with bigger valves etc. Go Pon cams, Angry German with surge tank injectors and a NISTUNE or I have an ECU in my 20 which has already been chipped and I won't be needing it. Already set up for 550's and a Z32AFM

I can't use AFM with the new setup as there is nothing big enough for 1rwkhp

So all you'd need would be injectors, fuel system, JJ intercooler and a couple of other bits and pieces. Could easily get 220rwkw on that turbo.

Then when you can afford more of an upgrade (or even want one) do the cylinder head and go bigger turbo/cams. You can make 235rwkw on the stock cams with stock/untouched head.

You can also do 205-210 rwkw on stock injectors and AFM too but I would be careful running them at those levels.

Plenty can be done with the RB20. Need to spend a bit on cylinder head work though if you want the numbers and torque.

Leave the bottom end for now, take off the head and put on a pre-ported one with bigger valves etc. Go Pon cams, Angry German with surge tank injectors and a NISTUNE or I have an ECU in my 20 which has already been chipped and I won't be needing it. Already set up for 550's and a Z32AFM

I can't use AFM with the new setup as there is nothing big enough for 1rwkhp

So all you'd need would be injectors, fuel system, JJ intercooler and a couple of other bits and pieces. Could easily get 220rwkw on that turbo.

Then when you can afford more of an upgrade (or even want one) do the cylinder head and go bigger turbo/cams. You can make 235rwkw on the stock cams with stock/untouched head.

You can also do 205-210 rwkw on stock injectors and AFM too but I would be careful running them at those levels.

Is it worth toying with cam gears? Or not worth it unless I went to a full ECU?

Worth my time buying a 6boost manifold for the current turbo? (I have no views of going high mount/ex gates).

The key is, response, keeping it alive and staying consistent

Is it worth toying with cam gears? Or not worth it unless I went to a full ECU?

Worth my time buying a 6boost manifold for the current turbo? (I have no views of going high mount/ex gates).

The key is, response, keeping it alive and staying consistent

No, stay factory manifold but maybe heat coat inside and out.

easy to keep it alive but revs will have to be cut short at 8k until you can afford/want bottom end work. And I'm not talking about beat kind of bottom end work.

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    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
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