Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

I remember saying that once....right before i spent 30k on my other 32 lol

haha one day bro one day, when i have enough cash saved up,my plans are to buy a R34 GTR V-Spec II NUR and then modify the R33 upto about 350awkw,

if i earnt this money i wouldnt be as sad as i am now, the sad reality is that i am 18, unemployed and still have another 2 years of uni to go,

Martin, no pain at all! It might not even be electrical current but you do have to shand on metal plates with no shoes on! we got ours from the good guys for like $100

Haha, yeah I was joking. But i've just read up on it, it is indeed an electrical current that goes up one leg and down the other. Thats right past the fun zone! :)

There some for ~$30 on ebay, they should do the trick doesn't need to be HK.

PS NPC twin > Nismo ha ha

Jim Berry Clutch FTW!

*Flamesuit on

Edited by Smity42
nah man there is sum special equipment u need to open the forks up on the gearbox, only a cuple of guys have it in qld, and the guy Dan at ERD uses, just got back today from holidays, so gearbox work will start today, the rest is all nearly done,

probably wil be monday or tuesday next week if everythin goes according to schedule and theres no hicups etc.

brake pads are being put in today, machining rotors etc will be finished today as well i think,

power fc is in, engine check light was on so Dans troubleshooting that,

front pipes and high flow cat need to be put in, then the full service needs to be done all fluids etc,

cam gears and timing belt and water pump and a new battery wil also be put in,

thats all i can think off,

after that its going to be off to EFI for dyno tuning and then on the highway home to St. Lucia

out of all of that all that was needed was one synchro replacement, and full service and brake pads and the clutch which i found out about today.

ha ha good old Jim Berry

We threw out a lot of old pressure plates cleaning up Dans the other day....should have taken them to Jim he could have pivot modified them and charged 1200 for em! :)

hey bro, i would love to get the nismo twin plate, heard awesome things about them, but the sad truth is i have now spent nearly 7 grand on the car and thats not including the clutch, it hurts me because all i needed to spend was about 3 or max 4 grand, the rest was all things i wanted not things i needed, Dan recommended the heavy duty clutch from NPC, the one that replaces the stock clutch, he said it would be strong enough for upto 280awkw,i dont know if it will be able to handle launches etc

and im calling it quits for now, once this stuff is done, all im gona do is service it, ive spent way too much money on things that werent needed and that money could have been spent elsewhere,

-FML-

from the man himself adam...

NPC7056HD -- 240kw

NPC7056HDB - 300kw

Bigmouth Street - 300kw

Bigmouth Track - 400kw

NPC Track TWIN - + 1000kw

NPC Street TWIN - + 750kw sprung or cushion (cushion is solid centre plates)

NSK7056HD - 240kw

where HD = heavy duty

HDB = heavy duty button

and I don't think you should do limiter launches on the one you're talking about either.

Edited by jaxt

NPC twin for 2k+? Thats in the range of the Nismo twin coppermix (unless you got hit for tax when you import it or get it locally, which is around 3.5k). But if Mark uses that on his 7sec car, it cant be bad at all. DO IT!

from the man himself adam...

NPC7056HD -- 240kw

NPC7056HDB - 300kw

Bigmouth Street - 300kw

Bigmouth Track - 400kw

NPC Track TWIN - + 1000kw

NPC Street TWIN - + 750kw sprung or cushion (cushion is solid centre plates)

NSK7056HD - 240kw

where HD = heavy duty

HDB = heavy duty button

and I don't think you should do limiter launches on the one you're talking about either.

yeh, as long as its a bit stronger than stock im happy, ive only done a launch once at 5K rpm and thats it, i never need to launch as i dont drag etc just a street car so should be good enough i hope.

from the man himself adam...

NPC7056HD -- 240kw

NPC7056HDB - 300kw

Bigmouth Street - 300kw

Bigmouth Track - 400kw

NPC Track TWIN - + 1000kw

NPC Street TWIN - + 750kw sprung or cushion (cushion is solid centre plates)

NSK7056HD - 240kw

where HD = heavy duty

HDB = heavy duty button

and I don't think you should do limiter launches on the one you're talking about either.

*nods*

Those good for 300kw would be sufficient for normal driving but probably not limit launches. I'll get a comfortable twin if I'm ever changing the clutch for sure (either Nismo or that NPC if its really gentle on my foot).

i think my car will make around 230 to 250awkw after everythin is done, so clutch is good enough for the job

f**king woot, i changed some settings and my quote button is back!

Should be more than enough for your car given it is on street duties

nismo twins are rated at like 500hp, the ine on my car is 1000hp, and you only have to loook at the construction to see why

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/super-coppermi...in-plate-clutch

600ps... which i think its close to 600hp too. But my justification for that is comfortability. Everytime I read about someone's review on them, they're bound to mention how comfortable it feels comparing to other twins. Although NPC seems to be better value for money, but if I dont ever need that kinda rating, I'll go with whichever that feels more comfortable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...