Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Sup bitches. Posting from iPhone because telstra and tpg combined to form super aids. Average weekend went out with a few mates on sat night n had a few drinks. Did all my washing n shit and then rode to burleigh heads on the pushy lol. No idea why just bored lol. Now I'm sunburnt listening to the clash and reading. Back for more work rapage tomorrow hurrah

Just keep a look out for them on forums. Maybe import monster or ebay?

+1 for TE37. Looks great + easier to clean that multis. Man your 34 is really a money pit now! Just got new rims not long ago and now you're changing again... Hahaha.

PS: you do realise for TE37s to have those dish size, you'll needa get 10.5" yah?

Just to semi correct this. Te37s don't have a lot of dish in 18s the only way to get a nice lip on them is to get the 19s. On the 18s the wider you go the more concave the spokes are. The dish stays pretty much the same.

hey guys,

posted a thread in another section, only got a few replies yet,

just thought i should ask opinions here as well,

basically My Fujistubo Titanium Cat-back as you guys now is very quiet until about 4000rpm, especially on idle etc, its mainly because of the resonator, currently it meets all DB sound levels and ive never had problems with cops etc when i get pulled over,

ive put in a high flow cat and front pipes now so that should deepen the note but sometimes especially after being in other peoples cars here feel like have a exhaust thats a bit louder below 4000rpm as well, so i was considering cutting out the resonator and putting in a straight pipe,

i am 99% sure it will be over the 90db limit once this is done, do you guys reckon its worth the extra attention from coppers and possible defects or should i just stick with what i have now, its only a 100 dollar job to do and doesnt take very long,

i havent heard what the car sounds like now after the cat and front pipes btw.

Hmmm what to get, What to get ? ? ?

te37%20bronze1%20small.jpg

ce28n-bronze.jpg

Second rims are sick as clamydia. CE28's? Fkn love those rims

hey guys,

posted a thread in another section, only got a few replies yet,

just thought i should ask opinions here as well,

basically My Fujistubo Titanium Cat-back as you guys now is very quiet until about 4000rpm, especially on idle etc, its mainly because of the resonator, currently it meets all DB sound levels and ive never had problems with cops etc when i get pulled over,

ive put in a high flow cat and front pipes now so that should deepen the note but sometimes especially after being in other peoples cars here feel like have a exhaust thats a bit louder below 4000rpm as well, so i was considering cutting out the resonator and putting in a straight pipe,

i am 99% sure it will be over the 90db limit once this is done, do you guys reckon its worth the extra attention from coppers and possible defects or should i just stick with what i have now, its only a 100 dollar job to do and doesnt take very long,

i havent heard what the car sounds like now after the cat and front pipes btw.

You're getting a complete tune done so your car will sound different from before. Save your penny's and keep your mum happy if you can. If you've got something really restrictive I'm sure the elite one can help you with that. I took a look at your car on Friday when I was there too, coming along nicely

Just to semi correct this. Te37s don't have a lot of dish in 18s the only way to get a nice lip on them is to get the 19s. On the 18s the wider you go the more concave the spokes are. The dish stays pretty much the same.

Thanks for that. Seen 19x10.5 +22 in real life and they have very fat dish.

hey guys,

posted a thread in another section, only got a few replies yet,

just thought i should ask opinions here as well,

basically My Fujistubo Titanium Cat-back as you guys now is very quiet until about 4000rpm, especially on idle etc, its mainly because of the resonator, currently it meets all DB sound levels and ive never had problems with cops etc when i get pulled over,

ive put in a high flow cat and front pipes now so that should deepen the note but sometimes especially after being in other peoples cars here feel like have a exhaust thats a bit louder below 4000rpm as well, so i was considering cutting out the resonator and putting in a straight pipe,

i am 99% sure it will be over the 90db limit once this is done, do you guys reckon its worth the extra attention from coppers and possible defects or should i just stick with what i have now, its only a 100 dollar job to do and doesnt take very long,

i havent heard what the car sounds like now after the cat and front pipes btw.

Titanium? Are you sure? I've done a bit of research before and its very hard to weld steel to titanium or even titanium to titanium...

Anyone wanna buy pods or hks bovs? My friend's got a couple here for sale if anyone's interested. Got them for his silvia but didnt end up using them.

Anyone wanna buy pods or hks bovs? My friend's got a couple here for sale if anyone's interested. Got them for his silvia but didnt end up using them.

hks bov: what one? and how much?

yeh man im not relly sure if taking out the resonator is gona mean better flow?exhaust is good flowing anyway just very quiet.

you've been complaining about your exhaust volume since the day I met you. You obviously just want to do it to make it louder so just do it already and quit bitching about it and asking for approval :thumbsup:

Hey :thumbsup:

I came across this little gem in my travels that I though you all might like.

Gentlemen, I present to you the Basilica of St Mang.

post-59190-1263121270_thumb.jpg

haha @ Isola. lol well i was overwelmed by every1s car being so loud and mine sounded lke a corolla on idle, i actully thought something was wrong with my exhaust, only found out about Fujistubo and thier resonator crap a few weeks ago LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...