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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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exxy kit though atleast it's a grex one though. Just jap ones are only $400 new

they also suck and leak, on my other 32 i paid for the kit then had to pay another 200 for decent lines = not so cheap anymore :D

they also suck and leak, on my other 32 i paid for the kit then had to pay another 200 for decent lines = not so cheap anymore :D

my trust kit on the 31 leaked

...but that was because I was missing an O ring :D

justjap ones have no thermo and are not as quality as the trust/grex

Yeah you want the thermo in it, otherwise it takes forever to get up to proper operating temp. Not good.

I wanted it lol was looking for one for ages and then I lost my job and found it. Was like dammit!!!! :D

Yeah you want the thermo in it, otherwise it takes forever to get up to proper operating temp. Not good.

I wanted it lol was looking for one for ages and then I lost my job and found it. Was like dammit!!!! :D

I'm not TOO fussed as it's for my track car, so it won't spend much time cold. But I would prefer a thermostat.

I'm not TOO fussed as it's for my track car, so it won't spend much time cold. But I would prefer a thermostat.

Ah yeah, still good to have. Shorter the engine is cold the better.

Oh I want a track car :D

one man mexican wave?

You know it

Quick question, would a leaking water pump keep your radiator coolent level but empty your reservoir?

Leaky radiator cap ?

Quick question, would a leaking water pump keep your radiator coolent level but empty your reservoir?

Could do as when the car cools down it will suck the water in from the reservoir. Fill it up and take the car for a drive and get it hot then have a look to see with the car running if its blowing any bubbles or anything in the reservoir. If it is will be a blown head gasket. Check that the reservoir isn't split been that its plastic as well. Have seen this happen before.

Just some things to look at.

Hope this helps

Quick question, would a leaking water pump keep your radiator coolent level but empty your reservoir?

In a properly working cooling system it will empty your reservoir first, but it would eventually start emptying the main cooling system (radiator) too.

But this is regardless of where the leak is in the system, it could be water pump, hose, just about anything.

Why do you suspect water pump?

In a properly working cooling system it will empty your reservoir first, but it would eventually start emptying the main cooling system (radiator) too.

But this is regardless of where the leak is in the system, it could be water pump, hose, just about anything.

Why do you suspect water pump?

After researching it seems like water pump failure isnt that uncommon. The car has never been overheated before but I've filled the reservoir up 3 or 4 times with coolent since my last service (8000km).

I can see coolent residue on the car when its up on hoist too but never a patch of green stuff when I park.

What I wanna know is how is the system diagram like... what goes where. I might try googling and see if anything comes up.

ps: I'm hoping its the water pump because I'm changing that out this weekend for major service!

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  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
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