Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

you frikken left as soon as I arrived!

Did I smell bad?

Yes and No.... Nat was keen to get home.

That's what she said.

Thats what Nuff said

I'm guessing after all the noise we made leaving, that the cops were probably there soon after. 6 cars leaving at once is pretty farkin loud :happy:

There were cops :)

yer, skid to leave!

Good man

lol slippy clutch no good :(

Ride it like it's stolen...

Sucked in mang. Looks to be a slow work day today. All nighter tonight getting assignments finished though. FTL.

So you found some inner motivation for your assigment hey??

f**k yes;

dsc01962j.jpg

No. Just No. That thing looks like ass.

But I have forgotten that you LandCrabs like things that are busted and half arse....

That car covers the following LandCrab styles:

Wanting epic fitment but don't wanna spend any more than $200.... Can you just widen my steelies I got of my Mum's Camry? I can get some 'as new' 2nd hand tyres off da forums....

Chopped springs in the rear, stockers in the front, "cause all the cool kids are doin it......'

A poxy 'glass lip, cause it's easy to fix it when I touch park, yo.......... That and I get discount at trade supplies for cable ties.....

Euro plate not mounted on the bar, cause it makes it look 'Exotic' and I found at the trash 'N' treasure on the weekend.........

Sideskirts that were picked up for heaps cheap off da forums. Already black. I got a $2 can of fiddly bits and sprayed my awesome 'glass lip to match....

A farked pop up headlight motor, so the other one is adjusted to match... Peoople think it has an expensive lazy eye controller.....pft sif

If you had of posted this, I would have agreed....

Red_180SX_Front.jpg

Here are some pics of some cars that are sure to get your LandCrab juices flowing.....

This one is hella awesome. It has speedhunters on it... so full of win....

DSC_3420%20copy.jpg

This is a 'Hatchi' that is so full of LandCrab win.... I bet the guy bought it off his gay uncle and went to town on it.

dsc03422di8.jpg

Sparco sticker $7 off eGay

'glass lip, minor damage $60 off da forums

'Meshies' with 'As New' tyres $150 (lowballed) off da forums

Bonnet pins $18 of eGay. Gives it a full track spec vibe...

Can of Fiddly Bits black $2 from trade supplies. Can now paint my 'glass lip and my awesome 'meshies' with it. It'll look so sick..

Until you try to drift (overtake a truck on the motorway in the wet) and run it into the armco......

jumbp001um9.jpg

Sick drift damage bro.........

Here is another sick LandCrab car..... mad props

It has original paint and everything........... on the door

3472236102_b8d04364c6_o.jpg

Bought a pair of 18 dish rims for soooo cheap. fuckin sick offset. could only buy a pair though... found em on NS.com

Got a signwriter to knock up some sick stickers too. This guy can be found at the broadbeach markets every 2nd Sunday. Cheap as too. $5 a sticker. Stick em o nthe glass, it wont damage the paint....

Creative painting of the hood (it's a fucking bonnet you muppets). Shows off every colour of your homo rainbow. YOur 3rd grade art teacher would have give you an elephant stamp....

very-good-elephant-2007.jpg

And this wuan is so JDM awesome

Don't bad mouth it, cause this shit is legit! So full of win!

resized-100_0459.jpg

This one has an awesome s13 from conversion....

Straight dump pipe, no exhaust, but 2x 100mm drain pipes frome trade supplies for $12 each! Baragain. Now what to do with them????

Cardboard tow hook painted custom green. Cause we all know that track day regs say either stock or RED hooks. Nice work.

I needs me somewhere to keep my funnel for when I have to refill the oil cause I'm too cheap to fit the leaking sump gasket....oh wait, that's the sump plug. Where'd it go? who cares, Gaffa tapes fixes all.

Oh and I was looking through the classifieds, and saw some tyres you may be interested in....

235/45/18 Linglongs

Ace tyre

Epic grips

Some camber wear, but other than that, in "As New' Condition.

$200

worn-drift-tires-740783.jpg

I be ya you can get them for $40 each if you lowball him....

Fucking Land Crabs.... :happy:

Edited by SABBAi
Ride it like it's stolen...

So you found some inner motivation for your assigment hey??

I like riding it... :)

Yeah motivation that I f**ked myself over by taking so long doing this assignment. I managed to give myself Fri/Sat to finish it. Sun/Monday Law case study 2000 words, tues/Thurs cost plan for childcare centre and wed/Fri construction methodology for cultural village project. I'm boned.

Tangentially:

Landcrab Owners' Club - http://www.landcrab.net/ - For owners of the Austin-Morris 1800/2200 and the Wolseley 18/85 & Six :)

Euro plate not mounted on the bar, cause it makes it look 'Exotic' and I found at the trash 'N' treasure on the weekend.........

umm no dude its a car from Europe

...typical Scott bullshit...

at least its good to see all those guys are;

a) getting out there and tracking it

b) spending time and money on a RWD car that'll skid

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...