Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

s13 coils bolt straight in. only mods is machining out camber tops to actually gain - camber or get dr30 camber tops.

So I can just buy a set of S13 coilovers and using leftover bits from my DR30 struts make it all fit front and rear?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4485481
Share on other sites

you may as well do an s13 front hub conversion.

the rears will fit the trailing arms but you will need to buy different caps coz silvia run two bolt.

OR you can precisely drill out two new holes in the top of your strut tower, but it would be better to find proper top caps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4486041
Share on other sites

5 stud conversion really can be done, anyone have an idea for doing rear 5 stud conversion?

S13 coilovers yes they bolt in you just take the plate off that the standard struts bolt to the LCA onto...If you run the standard S13 camber tops be prepared to run alot of negative camber or run the DR30 strut tops

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4486226
Share on other sites

the advantage for me was a floating disc set up and coilover fronts with more options.

100mm spacing for bigger brakes, mine is an mr30 not a dr30.

i have the understanding that dr30's already have this 100mm spacing?

makes it a whole lot easier to take your front shocks out!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4486697
Share on other sites

So I can just buy a set of S13 coilovers and using leftover bits from my DR30 struts make it all fit front and rear?

sorry should have been more specific, as said will need s13 hubs of course to bolt the coilovers to (s13 r floating hub and have strut separate to the hub). but all that bolts straight in (have s13 shit on my dr30) even brake lines fit straight up. only thing is that the steering knuckle on s13 hubs is thicker so when u screw the nut down it wont line up with the hole 2 get a split pin thru. can just put the nut upside down so can still get a pin thru. wont b able 2 come off, mines just 4 track work anyway.

and yea just drill out the strut tops for the rear. i just marked them out with pair of dividers no dramas.

or also as said could get proper 3 stud strut tops from somewhere.

Edited by OUTATIME
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4487260
Share on other sites

the advantage for me was a floating disc set up and coilover fronts with more options.

100mm spacing for bigger brakes, mine is an mr30 not a dr30.

i have the understanding that dr30's already have this 100mm spacing?

makes it a whole lot easier to take your front shocks out!!

yerp your right DR30's have 100mm bolt spacing for the calipers so changing to S13 coil overs is really not needed...if your really in need for coil overs sleeve ur standard struts easy as

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4487322
Share on other sites

only thing is that the steering knuckle on s13 hubs is thicker so when u screw the nut down it wont line up with the hole 2 get a split pin thru. can just put the nut upside down so can still get a pin thru.

you can counter sink a hole the width of the nut in the top of this hole so the nut will screw down all the way.

only needs to be counter sunk about 3mm, then it works a treat. no need for upside down nuts or ball joints with no split pins.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4487759
Share on other sites

if you're not in a hurry check out importmonster.com.au

i bought a full set of r32 gtr calipers, they also happened to come with brand new pads too, for 17,700yen which was about 170 bucks at the time.

i also got a full set of coilovers to suit the s13 conversion for 20,000yen which was about 200 bucks.

Edited by skybt1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4491430
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
i have been wanting to try and see if you can fit z31 stub axles into the r30 items.

but it is a rare item and im not even sure if it will work.

then you can use the z31 half shafts which are way better.

that would be good, my shafts are flogged and need to rebuild or upgrade, not so easy. ive seen 1600s with r200s runnig commondore halfshafts dont no if can do to r30 ?? .. i no its commoncrap but strong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4512747
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...