Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Fellas,

I just placed my Lenso D1Rs on my car (18x9 +32 rear and 18x8.5 +35 front), and to my suprise, the rear wheels differ.

I'll try to explain the best I can.

I fitted 265/35/18 tyres on the rear.

I put the rears on the car, and the right rear wheel stick further out of the guard than the rear left wheel. Both wheels are the same size and the tyres are the same....

It can either be one or more of the 3 things:

1) the tyres are f#$ked (both are Kumho KU31, maybe their was a manufaturing fault and 1 is wider than the other? Tyres pressure was the same);

2) Even though the rear rims are both 18x9 +32, maybe their was a manufacturing fault and one has a different offset or width?;

3) The diff needs adjustment? But I don't understand how this can be when it is independant and has independant shafts? Can each shaft be adjusted?

I've tried to contact the seller but no answer..... As you can imaging, I am pretty frustrated at the moment..

If you guys have any suggestions please do help me out!

Has anyone had a simular problem???

Cheers.

was this the case with the old wheels?

are you sure both rears are +32?

have you measured both to see if its true.

with cheaper end wheels, sometimes manufcaturing faults can cause them to be mismatched or have the incorrect stickers put on.

was this the case with the old wheels?

are you sure both rears are +32?

have you measured both to see if its true.

with cheaper end wheels, sometimes manufcaturing faults can cause them to be mismatched or have the incorrect stickers put on.

No it wasn't the case with the older wheels...

No I didnt measure them, these days you can't f#$king assume that what you buy is actually correct... F#$KING lenso!

Me and PaYbACk have the same problem. He's running 265's and I've got 245's on a wide rim and the left side sticks out about 5mm than the right.

We haven't had the time yet to sus out why and we've only had them on for a short while, but if you come up with an answer other than different offsets/rim width, let me know.

Me and PaYbACk have the same problem. He's running 265's and I've got 245's on a wide rim and the left side sticks out about 5mm than the right.

We haven't had the time yet to sus out why and we've only had them on for a short while, but if you come up with an answer other than different offsets/rim width, let me know.

Yeah I'll let you know if I solve it....

Maybe an allignment will solve the problem...?

I dunno... It's killing me because now I can't lower my car until I fix this....

I think I found a way for someone to solve this problem.

Step 1) Place a long leveller vertically agaisnt the GUARD, making sure the buddle is level, then, get a ruler, and measure the distance from the hub, to the leveller (MUST ensure the leveller is perfectly level.

Repeat this for the other side. If the distance on both sides is equal, that means nothing is wrong with your car, however, if the distance is different, might have to take it to a wheels and suspension centre (i.e. pedders) to see what they can do.

Step two) If the distance from the hub to the guard is equal on both sides, place the leveller on the edge of the RIM (again, must make sure the leveller is perfectly VERTICAL), then measure the distance from the hub to the edge of the rim. Perform this for the other side (If this ends up the same distance aswell, then something MUST be wrong with your tyres (process of elimination, right?)

However, if they distance is different from the hub to the edge of the rim, the wheels are a different offset OR different width.

I will measure mine up tomorrow, and I'll get back you you fellas,

CHeers.

remove wheels, put what was the right rear on the left and what was the left rear on the right and re measure? Becasue if you swap the wheels over and the measurements don't change then it's the car and not the wheels.

99% chance your car is not straight, 1% that there is an issue with wheels or tyres

remove wheels, put what was the right rear on the left and what was the left rear on the right and re measure? Becasue if you swap the wheels over and the measurements don't change then it's the car and not the wheels.

99% chance your car is not straight, 1% that there is an issue with wheels or tyres

It turned out to be the tyres, I just measured it then.

1) The distance from the hub to the guard was the same on both sides

2) the distance from the hubto the rim was the sameon both sides.

Then, I laid a metal ruler on the rim and the tyre just to see the angle it buldges out, and the right buldged out alot more if you get what I mean. Then by eye, I could see that the right tyre buldged out ALOT more than the left tyre.

The rims are the same width as I measured them. Must be a tyre manufacturing fault, or it was put on incorrectly.

Problem solved.

Hope you fellas try the same thing, I am sure it will be one of those 3 things listed above.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...