Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am once again after some tough Jap rims in good condition. With the way the Yen is at the moment its been a nightmare trying to find suitable wheels in the sizes i'm after for a good price. I need to find a set asap

Sizes i'm after is 17x9 (front) and 17X10 (rear). 18's are also fine depending on price and 1?x9.5 and 1?x10.5 will also be considered.

Wanting something along the lines of TE-37's, VSK-f's, GT-C's, GT-N, SSR Professors, SA-70TT's, TC-105N, etc...

Would really love some 17x9.5 +12 Volk TE37's in Bronze. I've got a set of Volk TE37's 17x9 +18 powdercoated gunmetal grey with tyres if anyone is keen on a swap or outright buy.

Would prefer tyres, although not necessary...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262365-tough-jap-wheels-wanted/
Share on other sites

^^ Nope, they had nothing suitable.

Come on, surely someone has some nice wheels for sale!! I'm just spewing i missed the Volk GT-C 18x9 -1 and 18x10.5 +5 that were sale for $3500 with tyres not long ago!

  • 2 weeks later...

I've got some tough Jap wheels that you might be interested in.

I'm not sure if you are chasing 5 stud pattern but here are the specs:

- WORK MIESTER S2 rims , 5 stud pattern , P.C.D - 114.3

- Front: 18*8 , Offset: +35 , Falken rubber 235/40ZR18 , 75% - 85% tread (approx.)

- Rear: 18*9 , Offset: +38 , Falken rubber 265/35ZR18 , 70% - 80% tread (approx.)

The above rims were purchased new in OZ for a R33 Skyline GTS-T I used to own. The rims were on the car for about 6000kms and were removed when I sold the Skyline. They have spent most of their lives wrapped in sheets in storage. The complete package ( with tyres ) set me back $4900.

They are virtually brand new. If there are any marks on the outer side of the rims, they are extremely hard to notice. You would have to get really close to notice any marks. Hence, they would almost pass for brand new. The inner sides of the rims have one or two marks picked up durring fittment.

I'm asking $3000 for the package. I would consider a swap. The rims would need to suit a Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 AWD ( 5*114.3 stud pattern).

I have attached a photo of rims when fitted to my old Skyline. If interested, give us a call on 0412 124 197. Cheers.

post-60138-1239058553_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...