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Custom Hand Made Water Pump Impellor & Cylinder Coolant Bleeds

webber

By webber,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Strik3r Experienced

Strik3r

Posted
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PWR twin pass alloy radiator (one of the big ones), stock water pump & thermostat.

After about 8 hotlaps of QR on a 30 degree day, water temps peaked at 83.. normally sits on 79-80 while cruising. I have moved the oil cooler and removed the aircon so the radiator gets better flow, but aside from that, nothing fancy cooling wise.

if you have the time/money, its not going to hurt.. just doesnt seem necissary.

webber Proficient

webber

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As i say i have not had a allot of issues, I done the Winton 6 Hour and share drove my car in a team, and it done 2 hours, and by the end of the day on the first year (36 or 38* day) it was starting to feel it, more than anything the power drop off from the heat soak. That was with STD boost, 600x300 fmic, 52mm koyo radiator, and Nismo thermostat. I don't think you can stop the heat dropping off your power completly, but i am going to try it and if it helps. Well bonus, when the sprints are on and it's over 35 degrees, now that i am running between 12-15psi i cringe and usually give the event a miss. If it helps on those days, without having to back the boost off much, or alter my maps much; well i really would be happy. If it dosn't well, i have wasted more money on on other 'performance parts' that haven't given me a gain before.

He is not up here this weekend, but i can grab an SR20 pump that has the same impellor on it, and take pics.

Cheers Guys.

DRIFTER Proficient

DRIFTER

Posted
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That's the advantage of this setup, most people don't realize that there car looses power after long periods of full throttle, try holding any car flat on the dyno for two minutes. Setting up the cooling system right prevents steam pockets or hot spots from forming in the head, which can stop valves from seating properly and uneven cylinder preasures leading to power loss. Obviously this probably isn't that much of a problem on a street car car, but on a track car the advantages are there.

Nathan

Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted

A word of advice; I've known John since 1995 and it took me 2 years to get a coolant de-aeration tank and thermostat relocation kit off him. Get a spare and ask him to work on it so you don't have your car off the road waiting for him.

It's all good in principle but the Jensen engine I spoke about in the link in your opening post was a basket case and prone to overheating no matter the size of the radiator or thermostat temp as it was a boiler in that configuration. I also saw the test rigs he made that showed the GM and Ford oem stuff reversing or stalling coolant flow. The RB is a different story as it isn't prone to overheating and in the case of at least the RB26 has an oem air bleed.

For $250 or so I think it's worth trying IF he can convince you that the oem unit is rubbish. It might not be perfect by his standards but if it's adequate then why bother. If you do get one please do back to back dyno runs to see if it affects anything at all ie power, torque, inlet temps, boost. ign etc. otherwise it wil be hard to know if it's made any difference.

In the case of the Jensen his ideas did make a huge difference but like I said it was a basket case.

webber Proficient

webber

Posted
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I will actually grab the cut up head over the next few days, and take some pics of the flaws in the top of the water jacket castings, there tend to be high pockets above the exhaust ports, that create hot spots, in an already hot point, he then drills and taps a bleed into that pocket so that there is coolant flowing through that point, and any air is returned. I honestly did not think that they were as obvious/large as they are. (there is a noticeable pocket present).

Cheers Guys

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