Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys,

I had a issue with my car stalling on idle and on going under 80kms

i replaced the fuel pump and AFM with a AFM from SSS parts

I advised bel exactly what was replaced and that the AFM was a used part from SSS

They kept the car for over 1 1/2 weeks chaning alternator which was playing up (this i knew as lights would go dim at times) also a circuit board in the dash.

the whole time they didnt know wat the go was, and tested everything to do with the electronics now they said they tested the AFM after this long and that the replacement one is playing up.

being mechanics and all i thought they would check the parts i replaced for safe measure, i received a quote for $650 for AFM part and replacement, also alternator and labour costs.

Your thoughts on this would be great, as i don't think $650 is something i want to pay for a damn AFM and alternator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262917-bel-garage/
Share on other sites

If you find the perfect garage that doesn't have a wait list to get in like a harley street

specialist and also doesn't charge a fortune, lemme know. I've heard nightmare stories

about half a dozen, and can relate with your story (your money wasted while they

learn on your car) at three different sydney tuners that I've tried. In the end I think

if you like the guy running the place you gotta give them a second chance as there is no

online resource where you can short-cut lottery involved in going to a new one by reading

a whole bunch of reviews.

So to dismiss bel and go

somewhere else, EVEN one recommended here by posters, you're rolling the dice again.

by the way, what did they say when you calmly explained that you don't feel like paying

for hours spent needlessly?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262917-bel-garage/#findComment-4502910
Share on other sites

Seems like its somthing simple that just got overlooked since you provided the AFM and they just assumed that it is a working one.

I've been to Bel once to get my 100k service done. Walked in with my parts in the morning and walked out in the afternoon all done. Rates were fixed in my case and there were no surprises.

I'm thinking taking my car there to get some mods done, but I would definitly ask for a fixed price if possible. Not just for bel, but for any workshop, but thats probabaly a hard ask especially there is troubleshooting involved.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262917-bel-garage/#findComment-4503491
Share on other sites

Seems like its somthing simple that just got overlooked since you provided the AFM and they just assumed that it is a working one.

I've been to Bel once to get my 100k service done. Walked in with my parts in the morning and walked out in the afternoon all done. Rates were fixed in my case and there were no surprises.

I'm thinking taking my car there to get some mods done, but I would definitly ask for a fixed price if possible. Not just for bel, but for any workshop, but thats probabaly a hard ask especially there is troubleshooting involved.

Exactly my experience with Bel. No complaints at all. They even did extra work and stuck with the original quote.

i thought they would check the parts i replaced for safe measure,

I think this is the key. Its not as if you asked specifically for them to do this and they didn't, you just thought they would.

The only advise i can give you is for things like that be very specific and ask them to do exactly that first. Then if they d!ck you around you've got a leg to stand on.

just my 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262917-bel-garage/#findComment-4503519
Share on other sites

i been going to bel for the past 3years, ive had a clutch installed, and 100k service and a few more mods, they have been pretty decent.

This time it just seems a little dodgy, ontop of that they charged me $150 4 weeks ago for the same issue, advising its getting to hot and to raise the bonnet, didn't fix the problem

so i think i have something to stand on to at least get the price down a little bit, , the $650 they quoted doesn't seem right for a AFM considering the diagnosis they done weeks ago and charge $150 without doing much.

I let them know the AFM is a used one from SSS parts, so check that.

Edited by JUN`R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262917-bel-garage/#findComment-4506166
Share on other sites

well champ u gotta remember a new alternator itself isnt a cheap part to replace... i have been lookin around for a new one cuz mines playin up too, and all i have been hearing is nothing under $400 for new items so that in itself accounts for most of ur bill if thats how much theyre charging for it plus the AFM and labour..... but if it is a second hand alternator then itsa different story..... just my 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262917-bel-garage/#findComment-4508568
Share on other sites

true true,

if its a new alternator then it seems fine, also the AFM was $220 (who knows where they got it from, if its in good condition or just a used one from somewhere)

all goods ill prob pick it up today.

Thanks for all the input :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262917-bel-garage/#findComment-4508607
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...