Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

after bein messed around by a couple of indeviduals, i have decided to bite the bullet and do the work to get my NEO properly assembled so it can be sold.

ITEM: 60,000K RB25DET NEO. appx engine km's but has been completely freshened up.

CONDITION: engine has been stripped down to the rotating assembly. the main & big end bearings were checked and were like new so not replaced. pistons are in perfect condition and same with all 6 bores. Head was removed and mechined stripped checked and re assembled to block with new genuine headgasket. comes with practically new intake & exhaust gaskets. Timing belt done appx 20,000K's so wasnt replaced as it will still be good for long time.

INCLUDES: Assentially its a complete engine with no bolt on acc's. comes with 2 EXH manifolds, complete NEO Intake manifold. STD solid lift NEO cams, cam covers timing covers and anything else i have for it.

SELLING BECAUSE: Bought to rebuild and put into my r33 but have since then decided not to change my engnie in my car due to financial issues.

Engine is in SE suburbs of victoria but can easily organise postage. PM me if you want any photo's or have any questions.

THIS IS THE CHEAPEST RB25NEO turbo engine you will find ANYWHERE>

grab a bargain.

Contact me on 0423130616 if you have questions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262932-fresh-assembled-rb25-neo-det/
Share on other sites

can i just take the head for 500? PM me asap. i've been looking at it for years! thanks

sorry mate but ive allready had a bloke in the states asking for the head for $800 aus. if you can find someone who wants all the other stuff for $500 then i will part it out. but 500 for the head isnt enought man, ive just spent a few hundred just on head machining. then the genuine head gasket is wnother 100.

lemme know wat you wanna do.

lol, i think i know the guy. he bought an RB25DE head from okinawa rather than RB25DET.

you've got a PM.

not sure where he found the other head but yeah, he got the wrong one.

PM replied too.

Anyone interested in the Short engine??? which is the rotating assembly but with no head on it. can sell that for $300 if anyone is interested.

Also have a HKS EXH cam gear. adjustable. $150ono

How come people send a PM then never repluy after i try to contact them???

someone buy this engine, i no longer have use for it.

nothing to do mechanically to it, just bolt on your acc's and drop her in the hole.

Thanks for your concern on the price mate and i really appreciate you trying to make other forum members think im dodgy. (please sense my sarcasm)

Just for the record and for everyones knowledge, previous thread price was before engine machine work+ New Gaskets from nissan + timing cases &other spares.

Im a mechanic and know what motors in good condition are worth, if your not interested please look somewhere else.

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...