Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

after bein messed around by a couple of indeviduals, i have decided to bite the bullet and do the work to get my NEO properly assembled so it can be sold.

ITEM: 60,000K RB25DET NEO. appx engine km's but has been completely freshened up.

CONDITION: engine has been stripped down to the rotating assembly. the main & big end bearings were checked and were like new so not replaced. pistons are in perfect condition and same with all 6 bores. Head was removed and mechined stripped checked and re assembled to block with new genuine headgasket. comes with practically new intake & exhaust gaskets. Timing belt done appx 20,000K's so wasnt replaced as it will still be good for long time.

INCLUDES: Assentially its a complete engine with no bolt on acc's. comes with 2 EXH manifolds, complete NEO Intake manifold. STD solid lift NEO cams, cam covers timing covers and anything else i have for it.

SELLING BECAUSE: Bought to rebuild and put into my r33 but have since then decided not to change my engnie in my car due to financial issues.

Engine is in SE suburbs of victoria but can easily organise postage. PM me if you want any photo's or have any questions.

THIS IS THE CHEAPEST RB25NEO turbo engine you will find ANYWHERE>

grab a bargain.

Contact me on 0423130616 if you have questions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262932-fresh-assembled-rb25-neo-det/
Share on other sites

can i just take the head for 500? PM me asap. i've been looking at it for years! thanks

sorry mate but ive allready had a bloke in the states asking for the head for $800 aus. if you can find someone who wants all the other stuff for $500 then i will part it out. but 500 for the head isnt enought man, ive just spent a few hundred just on head machining. then the genuine head gasket is wnother 100.

lemme know wat you wanna do.

lol, i think i know the guy. he bought an RB25DE head from okinawa rather than RB25DET.

you've got a PM.

not sure where he found the other head but yeah, he got the wrong one.

PM replied too.

Anyone interested in the Short engine??? which is the rotating assembly but with no head on it. can sell that for $300 if anyone is interested.

Also have a HKS EXH cam gear. adjustable. $150ono

How come people send a PM then never repluy after i try to contact them???

someone buy this engine, i no longer have use for it.

nothing to do mechanically to it, just bolt on your acc's and drop her in the hole.

Thanks for your concern on the price mate and i really appreciate you trying to make other forum members think im dodgy. (please sense my sarcasm)

Just for the record and for everyones knowledge, previous thread price was before engine machine work+ New Gaskets from nissan + timing cases &other spares.

Im a mechanic and know what motors in good condition are worth, if your not interested please look somewhere else.

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...