Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys im new here, from the east coast of the United States. i have an s13 240sx with rb20det and was looking into turbo upgrades. i ran across the t3 super 60 and it seems tempting for its low price. i was wondering if anyone has used this turbo or could give some pros/cons about it, or possibly give suggestions as to some other good turbos to use. I have already searched the entire dyno sheet thread. Thanks in advance :thumbsup:

edit forgot to add that im looking for about 300 whp or 225rwkw

Edited by disco dan

T3 Super 60.. is it off like ebay by any chance or some dodgy company claiming to not come from china? If so it will most likely fail. Get a hi-flow rb25 turbo or a kkr if you dont wanna spend much money. Make sure its a real kkr from otomoto tho cuz there is fakes everywhere.

230kw its easy out of an rb20. with a small turbo like gt 2530 gt 2535 or a hi flow 25 turbo all suit quite well

but in my oppinion id go something like a gt3071r or get a full TD 06 L2 kit from trust

both have awsome power and response is only 500rpm later in the rev range than a baby turbo like the 2530

they will give you at least 250kw and if you ever run a race tune with the right fuel you will see upto 280rwkw

mild tune at 250kw will chew any other rb20 with a 2530 or similar sized turbo.

in the end as everyone else will tell ya how far do you wanna go with mods all costs money bud

td06 kit is best bet and not so pricey

T3 Super 60.. is it off like ebay by any chance or some dodgy company claiming to not come from china? If so it will most likely fail. Get a hi-flow rb25 turbo or a kkr if you dont wanna spend much money. Make sure its a real kkr from otomoto tho cuz there is fakes everywhere.

No its the actual garrett t3 super 60 its retails here in america for about 700 bucks. a 2530 or similar hks turbo costs about 1500-2000 dollars new, and about 13-1500 dolars used high flow rb25 turbo is an option, but here they sell for 350 dollars in factory trim. without being high flowed. so all said and done would be about the same as a new t3 super 60 from garrett. i really would just like to know how well this turbo would work on an rb20. i dont buy china junk parts. im pretty much just trying to find a bolt on upgrade that doesnt have ceramic wheels. the car will be used mostly for drifting and im looking to have a powerband close to factory. thanks again

Edited by disco dan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...