Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Steering Headache In R33 Gts 25 T

danny14

By danny14,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

danny14 Mentor

danny14

Posted
Posted

hey guys beeem having trouble with my steering ever since i got it when the hicas light comes on its harder to steer so i got rid of hicas and put in lock bar the steering was real easy to turn after that but now and then which is everyday from start up it goes back to been harder to steer its really got me wat should i do ? do i have to disconnect hicas comp would that be interfearing with power steering >?

can someone please help

thanks

dan.

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted

If you disconnect the HICAS unit, you will lose the speed sensitive steering.

I would be more inclined to think that there is something wrong with the power steering pump. If not this, then the HICAS unit.

Do you have a mate with a 33 that you could swap units with and take her for a test drive???

All I can think of bro...

Pat O Enthusiast

Pat O

Posted
Posted

I also have a similar problem on my r32. steering will be light from start up, then after a few minutes will be really heavy. i have a lock bar but it's not installed. would this solve the problem? lol sorry to hijack your thread danny

jnr_chin Collaborator

jnr_chin

Posted
Posted
I also have a similar problem on my r32. steering will be light from start up, then after a few minutes will be really heavy. i have a lock bar but it's not installed. would this solve the problem? lol sorry to hijack your thread danny

Question have you changed the pump to the single flow for front wheels only and disconnected the hicas computer and remove unecessary lines? the lock bar would not solve the problem as such caz i have pinned mine and havent have this prob. from start up though the steering will feel free because the engine is at a higher rev hence the belt hopefully tensioned properly will spin the pump faster not sure were you stand not knowing your setup. check your lines though for crimps etc. and how often do you top up if any at all?

Pat O Enthusiast

Pat O

Posted
Posted
Question have you changed the pump to the single flow for front wheels only and disconnected the hicas computer and remove unecessary lines? the lock bar would not solve the problem as such caz i have pinned mine and havent have this prob. from start up though the steering will feel free because the engine is at a higher rev hence the belt hopefully tensioned properly will spin the pump faster not sure were you stand not knowing your setup. check your lines though for crimps etc. and how often do you top up if any at all?

yeah, see my problem is i don't know anything about HICAS or power steering in general, so i don't really know where to start. i haven't changed the pump to single flow for the front wheels, how would i go about doing this? should this loosen up the steering without disconnecting the hicas computer and unnecessary lines?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...