Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys beeem having trouble with my steering ever since i got it when the hicas light comes on its harder to steer so i got rid of hicas and put in lock bar the steering was real easy to turn after that but now and then which is everyday from start up it goes back to been harder to steer its really got me wat should i do ? do i have to disconnect hicas comp would that be interfearing with power steering >?

can someone please help

thanks

dan.

If you disconnect the HICAS unit, you will lose the speed sensitive steering.

I would be more inclined to think that there is something wrong with the power steering pump. If not this, then the HICAS unit.

Do you have a mate with a 33 that you could swap units with and take her for a test drive???

All I can think of bro...

I also have a similar problem on my r32. steering will be light from start up, then after a few minutes will be really heavy. i have a lock bar but it's not installed. would this solve the problem? lol sorry to hijack your thread danny

I also have a similar problem on my r32. steering will be light from start up, then after a few minutes will be really heavy. i have a lock bar but it's not installed. would this solve the problem? lol sorry to hijack your thread danny

Question have you changed the pump to the single flow for front wheels only and disconnected the hicas computer and remove unecessary lines? the lock bar would not solve the problem as such caz i have pinned mine and havent have this prob. from start up though the steering will feel free because the engine is at a higher rev hence the belt hopefully tensioned properly will spin the pump faster not sure were you stand not knowing your setup. check your lines though for crimps etc. and how often do you top up if any at all?

Question have you changed the pump to the single flow for front wheels only and disconnected the hicas computer and remove unecessary lines? the lock bar would not solve the problem as such caz i have pinned mine and havent have this prob. from start up though the steering will feel free because the engine is at a higher rev hence the belt hopefully tensioned properly will spin the pump faster not sure were you stand not knowing your setup. check your lines though for crimps etc. and how often do you top up if any at all?

yeah, see my problem is i don't know anything about HICAS or power steering in general, so i don't really know where to start. i haven't changed the pump to single flow for the front wheels, how would i go about doing this? should this loosen up the steering without disconnecting the hicas computer and unnecessary lines?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
    • You sir, big win tonight. Precision never supplied compressor maps in the past and Idk when they started, but it seems they only offer for a few of the older gen2's which is exactly what I have. I punched in some numbers and seem to have gone with the wrong turbo. 600-700whp isn't in the most efficient area and is close to the choke line. 800whp is well off the map. Punching the numbers into a 68mm gen2 turbo map is bang on in the center. Here I was thinking going smaller would shift the power band down, but in reality it would just make it so much worst due to my rev limit. I would have never thought. 
    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
×
×
  • Create New...