Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The very best H1 55w bulbs you can get are the Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar or Narva Plus 50. All are xenon and halogen filled bulbs (note, not the same as a Xenon HID system) and put out 50% more light while staying the same, legal, wattage. They don't have a blue tinge to them, more like a briliant white. Repco may not stock them but you should be able to find them at most auto electricians.

The problem with the "blue" look, even with legal bulbs, is that the coating applied to bulb invariably reduces visible light output. Head to head, the xenon halogen bulbs above are a better product (more light) and without the wank factor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26398-light-bulb-part/#findComment-559821
Share on other sites

RON-15H, the packaging on the ebay ones say both "White" and "Blu", and also "55w" and "100w". I have no idea what they are selling.

I bought Philips VisionPlus for around $30 a pair. Our SuperCheap doesn't carry them but you can find Philips stuff at Conventry's. Every auto electrician I've been to has them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26398-light-bulb-part/#findComment-560346
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...