Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just as the topic states, can noisey lifters enable r&r on a stock rb25det computer? I just notice that in my car sometimes it feels sluggish to drive after I have reset the computer and drove for about a week. On initial reset the cars goes like the wind and pulls excellently, but after about a week or so it just seems to lose that initial bite like the tune on it has been richened up. My lifters are noisey and I also have forged pistons, I just wanted to know if that could contribute to knock and cause the stock comp to go into the r&r maps.

Edited by Daboss
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264340-noisey-lifters/
Share on other sites

YES. Having forged pistons and noisy engine will cause the ECU to revert back to the low octane low timing map and you will lose power because it thinks the engine is pinging.

There is away to disconnect your knock sensors and run a resistor on the line to trick the ecu into thinking there is no knock if you want to do it that way.

Search the forum, a mate of mine has got 280 - 300rwkw out of his stock ecu by tricking R&R and by disabling the stock knock sensors. his username is *RB2530* or something like that.

Do a search. let me know if you cannot find it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264340-noisey-lifters/#findComment-4519843
Share on other sites

could be chocked up o2 sensor not seeing any airflow cos its coated in soot or just has never been changed

my 2 cents

then why does it come good after a ecu reset?

I did not know stock ecu's clean the afm's when they have been reset.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264340-noisey-lifters/#findComment-4519873
Share on other sites

YES. Having forged pistons and noisy engine will cause the ECU to revert back to the low octane low timing map and you will lose power because it thinks the engine is pinging.

There is away to disconnect your knock sensors and run a resistor on the line to trick the ecu into thinking there is no knock if you want to do it that way.

Search the forum, a mate of mine has got 280 - 300rwkw out of his stock ecu by tricking R&R and by disabling the stock knock sensors. his username is *RB2530* or something like that.

Do a search. let me know if you cannot find it.

I had a feeling that was the case, cause when I reset the ecu the car feels and runs like a dream, but as time goes it feels less and less powerful and my engine is kinda noisy with forgies. I found the thread, Thanks. Will look into this as soon as I have a way to monitor knock myself all the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264340-noisey-lifters/#findComment-4519878
Share on other sites

then why does it come good after a ecu reset?

I did not know stock ecu's clean the afm's when they have been reset.

comp goes to factory defaults then uses the o2 info to tune fuel trims

o2 sensors are prob fine and just plugged up from soot

just pull it out and have a look

if its nice and clean its not the problem

if its full of crap then its overfueling clean it out with carby cleaner and replace and see what happens

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264340-noisey-lifters/#findComment-4520392
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...