Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, so 2 days ago i took my car to the mechanic cos it was overheating, found out it was a water pump, so got that fixed aswell as a new timing chain,air con belt replaced and top chamber of the radiaitor, he took the solinoid out so to order a new one whilst i went to work the next day. Now the car sounded like a WRX from 800 - 1200 rpm, only on idle and when i took off then is fine after that. I drove it to work today cos i needed to, not cos i wanted to and guess what, after 8kms up the road it oveheated. I took it back to the mechanic and he did a pressure test in the radiator and said my head gasket has gone........Have you had problems like the car over heating or anything like that.

Not to say your head gasket has gone but the poping like a wrx from idle to just after i took off i believe could be a timing problem with my car as what i think you are trying to describe.

I could be wrong tho!!!

Edited by Damo_c

I got the same problem it doesn't happen all the time though, it's only once in a while, but it is same as your problem. I think it is a coil pack, best way to find out start the car and just let it idle, pop up your bonnet and pull out the coil packs 1 by 1. So pull the first 1 out and see what the car does if it starts to sound different then it's NOT that 1. So put that 1 back and pull out the next 1, keep doing this until you pull 1 of them out and you see that it's making no difference, because then that means that coil pack is F**ked.

In other words, your car now on idle sounds rough, pull out your coil packs 1 by 1 and put back in. Everytime you pull 1 out it should sound rougher, and if you pull 1 out and it doesn't sound any rougher than that 1 is f**ked. By the way if it does that at more than 1 coil than you could have more than 1 F**ked coil.

Good luck, I hope it's NOT that neway cause coil packs aren't cheap. And I hope that helped

Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...), you can do a proper power-balance test, as previously mentioned above.

Sorry to sound a little cynical, but we seem to be covering the same ground over & again.

Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...)

Well sorry but they not bolted TOGATHER on my engine (RB25 NEO). I'm talking about pulling out the coils off from the top of the spark plugs. That takes lituraly 2 seconds. It's worth a try.

I had a similar issue with my beema; would run on 5 cylinders on startup and low revs but once driving, the car came to life again.....tried the coilpack pull out thing and found which one was faulty so i replaced them all and the problem was fixed.

i hope this is the problem....goodluck

If you have an RB engine with multiple coil packs, and it's mis-firing on idle, it's pretty easy and quick to Id the cylinder at fault (if it's a constant cylinder problem, and not switching).

Remove the coil cover, start up the engine, and as it's idling and mis-firing, remove 1 coil loom plug and wait 10 seconds. If the engine gets worse, or stalls, then replace the loom, start the engine and move on to the next loomplug.

Repeat the above until you find that plugging in or removing the coil plug makes absolutely no difference to the running of the engine, and you have found the cylinder that is not firing, or firing only on occasions.

Logic behind it:

you have a 6 cylinder engine which is only running on 5 cylinders (for logic sake, cylinder 2 is the problem).

You start the engine, you can hear it mis-firing, you remove the coil pack for cylinder 1, it gets worse (because now it's trying to be a CA and run on 4 cylinders).

You plug cylinder 1 in, start the engine, remove the plug for cylinder 2, but it makes no difference. This is because cylinder 2 is not working anyway, so plugged in, or unplugged, it's not firing.

Continuing to 3, 4, 5, or 6 wont matter, you have found the problem, and continuing will result in the same as Cylinder 1 anyway.

B.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 馃槩 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
  • Create New...