Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Blew My Tubo

newboost

By newboost,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

newboost Rising Star

newboost

Posted
Posted

Just blew my turbo, i need some help on what to do next. I have taken the original turbo off and found that the exhaust wheel is still attached and there is no shaft play. But it does make a grinding sound when it spins. The car is a r33 s2 auto. The mods to the car so far are a fmic,splitfire coils,eboost 2 boost controller,microtech lt2 & turbo back x force exhaust.

Im not sure if i should get the stock turbo hiflowed or should go done the path of a turbo from kkr or some other type of company.

I am not trying to get a madly powered car just one the has a bit of go about it and reliability.

Any ideas would be very helpful.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266163-just-blew-my-tubo/
Share on other sites
Jap_Muscle Mentor

Jap_Muscle

Posted
Posted

you can buy a brand new garrett turbo but youll have lil to choose from, because if you pick something to big your gonna have to change the exhaust manifold and a bunch of other crap.

your lookn at $1000+

you can highflow your turbo or you can highflow a r34 turbo which is even bigger. and youd be lookna t 220-260rwkw

im selling mine for 150bux..... pm me if interested.

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

If your car is an auto then don't get carried away with power over 220kws as gearbox will set you beck more than any turbo. Even 220kws is too much, look at the auto threads and see if I'm wrong. Then again, go the 3076 internal gate for a $3000 setup and get the box built to suit and you will have any manual for breakfast at any traffic light duel.

Otherwise buy my GCG hi-flow for $350 or my 32,000k standard R33 turbo for $300.

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

That turbo from guilt toy looks good, especially for an auto. Remember though, might mean a quick end to your box. But if you were to keep the boost down till you can beef the box up then that would be a great investment for the future. Just a matter of how much comes with the turbo,ie: lines, dump, inlet, etc. Hi-flow would be easier but 250kws is where it starts to be fun so I know which one would be better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...