Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just lookn for some anodizers to anodize my rb26 covers. tried yellow pages but very few around. and would like to know if anyone has had any experience and recommend anyone?

Where abouts in Victoria are you?

My company uses "Collins Anodic Treatment" in Station Street, Blackburn, they are pretty good at what they do.

you cant anodize cast properly.....you will need to get them stripped and polished,spray them with an adhesion promoter,dillute some candy dye in 2K clear and spray them...i did mine and they look like this gallery_2711_155_98517.jpg

gallery_2711_155_332392.jpg

Edited by ylwgtr2
Where abouts in Victoria are you?

My company uses "Collins Anodic Treatment" in Station Street, Blackburn, they are pretty good at what they do.

Im in the South East Narre Warren Area.

These Guys are absolutely fantastic..

Melbourne Anodising 4 Booloora Rd SPRINGVALE (03) 9546 3344

Reasonably priced too.

They did the swing arm on my RM250 restoration..

Thanks kev ill give them a ring!

you cant anodize cast properly.....you will need to get them stripped and polished,spray them with an adhesion promoter,dillute some candy dye in 2K clear and spray them...i did mine and they look like this

thats pretty impressive buddy. im after something like this though

Sparksengineinforgood1009.jpg

Sparksengineinforgood1007.jpg

Sparksengineinforgood1006.jpg

just curious though ylwgtr2 did you do all that by yourself?

again that looks amazing

Edited by Jap_Muscle

those pics you have posted look quite simple to replicate.....a gun metal base coat with a couple of coats of matt clear will produce what your after,matt clear makes the colour go milky(for a more durable result on flat or matte finish's we clear them with gloss clear first,then when its gone touch dry 2 light dust coats of matt clear) ....i run a motorcycle paint shop so we are used to using bright candy,flat,satin,mirror chrome,special effect colours.Im driving candy dyes/special effect colours almost every day so after a while you start to get an idea how to end up with almost any finish people want....thanks for the kind words

Edited by ylwgtr2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...