Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just lookn for some anodizers to anodize my rb26 covers. tried yellow pages but very few around. and would like to know if anyone has had any experience and recommend anyone?

Where abouts in Victoria are you?

My company uses "Collins Anodic Treatment" in Station Street, Blackburn, they are pretty good at what they do.

you cant anodize cast properly.....you will need to get them stripped and polished,spray them with an adhesion promoter,dillute some candy dye in 2K clear and spray them...i did mine and they look like this gallery_2711_155_98517.jpg

gallery_2711_155_332392.jpg

Edited by ylwgtr2
Where abouts in Victoria are you?

My company uses "Collins Anodic Treatment" in Station Street, Blackburn, they are pretty good at what they do.

Im in the South East Narre Warren Area.

These Guys are absolutely fantastic..

Melbourne Anodising 4 Booloora Rd SPRINGVALE (03) 9546 3344

Reasonably priced too.

They did the swing arm on my RM250 restoration..

Thanks kev ill give them a ring!

you cant anodize cast properly.....you will need to get them stripped and polished,spray them with an adhesion promoter,dillute some candy dye in 2K clear and spray them...i did mine and they look like this

thats pretty impressive buddy. im after something like this though

Sparksengineinforgood1009.jpg

Sparksengineinforgood1007.jpg

Sparksengineinforgood1006.jpg

just curious though ylwgtr2 did you do all that by yourself?

again that looks amazing

Edited by Jap_Muscle

those pics you have posted look quite simple to replicate.....a gun metal base coat with a couple of coats of matt clear will produce what your after,matt clear makes the colour go milky(for a more durable result on flat or matte finish's we clear them with gloss clear first,then when its gone touch dry 2 light dust coats of matt clear) ....i run a motorcycle paint shop so we are used to using bright candy,flat,satin,mirror chrome,special effect colours.Im driving candy dyes/special effect colours almost every day so after a while you start to get an idea how to end up with almost any finish people want....thanks for the kind words

Edited by ylwgtr2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
    • Really, low/midrange torque goes really bad?? I want decent acceleration, maybe I use a stock rb25det neo manifold?    
×
×
  • Create New...