Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guy's,

Selling the wifes R33 Series 1 GTST M SPEC (MANUAL) as we have four cars and need to cull it to two (she gets to drive the 4cyl 4wd lol). ****Also getting rid of an EH Wagon if anyone knows someone interested in an old school cruiser.****

WHATS GOOD - ;

Stock standard (so not boosted or thrashed), Trust front lip, 17 inch Black Works Rims with Red ring around outside with 245/17's with about 95% tread (wife and I couldn't drop a skid if we tried), Kakimoto Exhaust (nice note- never been hassled by the po po), Braced Apexi Pod Filter, has a nice looking grill which I don't believe is standard and also. Sony headunit and pioneer speakers. Interior is pretty clean, has factory skyline floor mats but also could do with a clean (We have three kids and two little kids and this is the wifes daily).

KILOMETERS - Car is a bee's d!ck away from 130k.

WHATS BAD - Front drivers door window stopped working about two weeks ago (I haven't bothered having it looked at despite the wife's pleads). It went up and then hasn't moved since. Top of steering wheel is dry and cracked, Front lip has scratches and some cracks as women don't know how to drive in and out of driveways lol. Unbeknown to us when we bought it (As I looked at it on a late Saturday Arvo, drove it and then picked it up on a Monday) some bast@rd had keyed the car about a third down the left side which was touched up by the previous owner (Visible when closer to the car) and cuz it gets stored outside in the open the Paint could do with a buff. I can arrange getting the side where the key mark is resprayed and a full car buff for about $700.

LOCATION - Browns Plains, Logan, Brisbane

RWC - will be included as car drives like a dream and has no mechanical problems whatsover. Just about to have a service Oil and Filter & plugs

PRICE - $10,000 slight movement possible as I can source stock wheels and roadworthy tyres as I would be happy to keep the wheels for my car to use on the track. Also comes with 6 months rego.

PHOTO'S - Coming just gotta give her a tub

CONTACT - PM or phone text Bill on 0422886721

Photo's now up.

NOTE - The paint being BLACK and parked outside in the open, NEEDS A BUFF as after I washed it I can see fine scratches all over it (That's what you get with black). I can factor this into the pricing and have it done before receiving if wanted.

Also the key mark is not massive as it is quite thin but it is just enough that to fix it properly you would need to give it a spray over.

The wheels are WORK REZAX wheels and the tyres are actually 235 fronts and 255 backs.

Car is getting serviced tomorrow as its latest five thousand k's are up.

We bought the car about a year ago and have racked up 10k since ownership (wife drives it to and from work and thats about it). We changed the oil and filter when we bought it, again at 125k and now at 130k.

Also wife said that the window was working the other day but has stopped again. Seems to look like a switch problem.

Anyway I believe this car is priced well to sell and am giving Skylines Australia a go before I go to carsales etc.

Also I have the standard airbox as the previous owner had the pod on when I bought it.

Not desperate or in a hurry to sell so please no stupid offers.........

Cheers

Bill (Imtorqing)

post-19906-1240473977_thumb.jpg

post-19906-1240473991_thumb.jpg

post-19906-1240474003_thumb.jpg

post-19906-1240474017_thumb.jpg

post-19906-1240474029_thumb.jpg

post-19906-1240474041_thumb.jpg

post-19906-1240474160_thumb.jpg

post-19906-1240474171_thumb.jpg



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...