Jump to content
SAU Community

Traffic Hazard (avoid Whites Road, Salisbury)

Tommmo

By Tommmo,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tommmo Proficient

Tommmo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just a warning to all those that might be driving through the area.... SLOW down!

Or avoid the road all together if your car is lowered or have low front bar.

There's a "Hazard Ahead" sign, but no indication to slow down.

I was in my Chaser, travelling along at 50, behind another vehicle and didn't notice the massive slabs (3 of them, 10m between each one) of road which the council has cut out and filled in with dirt and with todays rain...all the dirt has eroded. Each ditch is around 8-10cm deep!

I hit the first one at 50km, by the time I realised what happened and reacted, I was going through the second one around 40km.

I pulled over right away and checked to see if there was any visual damage, couldn't see too much, but driving home I noticed it definitely didn't feel the same!

The alignments all out, the steering wheel now wobbles like a b*tch and there's a knocking sound coming from the back! NOT HAPPY! >_<

Fingers crossed the wheels aren't buckled!

Edited by Tommmo
Tommmo Proficient

Tommmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I took a couple of pictures with my phone last night, they didn't come out too good though.

Thought about going back there this morning, but its on the other side of the city for me and knowing my luck they would have filled them in by the time I get there.

post-20233-1240538385_thumb.jpg

Tommmo Proficient

Tommmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i live round the corner, but im at work. ill see if i can get some at some stage tonight or tomorrow.

That would be great! much appreciated..

To the mechanics I go.. fingers crossed its nothing too serious!

Tommmo Proficient

Tommmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

all 4 wheels are buckled!!

front are quite noticable, rears not so much.

called the council, apparently they are not responsible for the road works, there's a new development between Blaess Dr and Belperio Cl and the builder is in charge! :)

post-20233-1240546877_thumb.jpg

Tommmo Proficient

Tommmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1: find some bent high end expensive wheels

2: get them for dirt cheap

3: put on car

4: claim they were damaged by the roads

5: ????

6: profit

Hahah.. there's a thought!

Just not my style though

Murry33 Experienced

Murry33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Damnn, i had similar thing happen in my old skyline. i went to turn a corner and there were concrete pieces all over the road, something had hit the corner before, but by the time you see if you've turned the corner and drove all over it!

long story short, i bent my sparco wheel, waited 2 hours for a tow lol :). luckily was fixable though

Edited by Murry33
Tommmo Proficient

Tommmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Damnn, i had similar thing happen in my old skyline. i went to turn a corner and there were concrete pieces all over the road, something had hit the corner before, but by the time you see if you've turned the corner and drove all over it!

long story short, i bent my sparco wheel, waited 2 hours for a tow lol :). luckily was fixable though

that sucks!

how much did it cost to fix?

I was told mine are fixable, but at $200-$300 per wheel plus a wheel alignment! i'm not happy!

I'm not paying for someones negligence!

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
There's a "Hazard Ahead" sign, but no indication to slow down.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if the above is actually the case, they may use that to waive any responsibility (hazard sign generally means, 'slow down & look').....having said that, if it's as bad as you say, they should have zoned that area off.

And as far as the council not having any liability....huh?!

Even if they are private contractors, I would've thought the council would have to be the overseers of the project.....public road isn't it??

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

This reminds me of a similar thing that happened to me.

It's amazing how quickly councils and contractors pass the buck to each other when stuff like this happens.

A few years ago I parked in the Elizabeth City Centre car park and put my front wheels against one of those concrete sleepers that are held into the ground with 2 spikes (rio rod).

Unfortuantely, one of the spikes were sticking out approx 6 inches so as I drove forward the spike got hooked under my front bar (didn't even hear it).

When I reversed out it ripped my whole front bar off the car.......consequently my bloke got away.

Tried the Centre Management, didn't want to know me, "council's problem".........tried the council, did't want to know me, "Centre Management's problem".

Went back and forth a couple of times before going into the Magistrates Court and paying $80 for a Letter of Demand which I sent to the Centre's Maintenance Dept and they couldn't pay me quick enough cause I threatened to charge them for a lost day's work as well at $150ph.

Tommmo Proficient

Tommmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if the above is actually the case, they may use that to waive any responsibility (hazard sign generally means, 'slow down & look').....having said that, if it's as bad as you say, they should have zoned that area off.

And as far as the council not having any liability....huh?!

Even if they are private contractors, I would've thought the council would have to be the overseers of the project.....public road isn't it??

I spoke to the council and the contractor.

The council says the contractor has a due care to keep the road in a safe state, which they didnt. According to them, If the road was in a state to cause damage to my vehicle at 50km/h, there should have been additional safety measures, be it signage, patrol, road closure etc.

The contractor said the signage was sufficient and believes road was in a safe state!

They have asked me to send them a copy of photo's and they will review my claim.... I think I already know the verdict!

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
The contractor said the signage was sufficient and believes road was in a safe state!

They have asked me to send them a copy of photo's and they will review my claim.... I think I already know the verdict!

Clearly the road was not in a safe state with your photos being evidence enough.

You're 1/2 way there....the fact that they've even asked for photos indicates that they are liable for road safety measures as opposed the council.

Now you just have to know how to handle the situation and not take their bluff as gospel or take no as an answer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...