Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi up for sale i have my 1992 r32 with a rb25 det in it it was a de not to long ago but i decided to replace the whole motor with a rb25det with only 68 000 on it this was a complete stock car until i aded the folowing parts

greedy front mount

tein high adjustable coil overs

blitz 555cc injectors

kkr 430 turbo

3inch dump pipe

2 and half in exhaust (i think)

walbro 550 fuel pump

remaped ecu

extream heavy duty clutch

17 inch rays eng rims

um boost gauge

gizmo electronic boost controler

hks turbo timer

drift gear nob

it also has sun roof

abs which is disconected atm

um ther is also slight rust near sun roof and rear guards

i am chasing around the $14,000 mark neg or open for swaps for a track car worth 5ish and cah my way or a 32gtr and some cash ur way

located in adeladie hills

the car will be avaliable to veiw after this friday the 1st as it is goin to get dyno i will update the power results should be good for 220kw no worries the car still has 2months regon on it any more pics or qustions you can pm me or email me on [email protected] thank you

post-48317-1240637231_thumb.jpg

post-48317-1240637591_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267021-r-32-with-rb25det/
Share on other sites

yes it is regoed with the 25 and no didn t do upgrade the brakes

ok u have to tell me how you pulled that one off.

when i went through regency to get complienced i had to have rb25det or rb26dett as the rb20det werent big enough. as well as the exhaust emissions tested and all provided to the boys there before registration.

ok u have to tell me how you pulled that one off.

when i went through regency to get complienced i had to have rb25det or rb26dett as the rb20det werent big enough. as well as the exhaust emissions tested and all provided to the boys there before registration.

hey mate if your no interested in buy stop talking s**t in my forum thanks

hey mate if your no interested in buy stop talking s**t in my forum thanks

y such a harsh response??? just a simple question with a simple response would have been nice

some of us would like to know the answer for future reference like me even.

what have u got to hide??? you have told us what it is about so i suspect nothing.

i would like to know also.. i have a street gtr for sale if interested

registered as a rb25de not a rb25det.

hense y its registered with a 25 non turbo. that can be done easy with no dramas.

but would still need full regency.

but if you wanted a track car it would be perfect as hell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...