Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have purchased a second hand HKS 2530 for my RB20 with some lines, however the oil line appears to be from standard and doesn't fit the smaller thread of the turbo oil feed(coolant lines fit). I need to get a new line made up, what size restrictor would people recommend to put in this line. I'm unsure if the HKS already has a restrictor in it. I don't want to starve the turbo of oil but I don't want to break any of the seals by getting to much oil in there.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268800-hks-2530-oil-restrictor/
Share on other sites

The restrictor is already there.

And it doesn't break the seals, it only makes the oil get past them. So just run the line to the turbo...if it gets a bit smokey, then you need to put another restrictor in. HKS assumes that you retain the 2mm factory restrictor when they do this though, so you need to make sure you have that one on the block side also.

Thanks for that.

Is the restrictor in the block itself or on the line attached too the block?

Cheers,

Adrian

Both.

The factory RB20 oil feed has approx. 2mm restrictor in the banjo fitting on the block end.

The turbo also has one. The restrictor in the in the turbo is less than 1mm so the only purpose the one in the banjo fitting serves is to slow the oil down before it gets to the turbo. The factory turbo is journal bearing in the series 1 and ball bearing in the series 2 and 3 so the restrictor is there for the factory turbo setup. You can leave it there or take it away, it does not matter. The one in the turbo is all that matters and Garrett put them in all of the GT range of turbos in an appropriate size.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...