Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

i recently had a engine rebuilt cos some dick put a screw in my wastegate breather instead of chucking it onto cooler piping and ye fried all piston rings. Now since the upgrade every now n e then when i put my foot down a little the turbo is mass lagging and my blitz ssq is now jammed cos of oil. Im thinking cos the turbo wasnt replaced there is a problem maybe with the oil seal. Just a second opinion. Ive checked radiator and oil no milky shit in there so i know pistons etc r all good.

If anyone could give me a clue as to what it could be would be appreciated.

Also, when i first start the car and warm it up the blitz goes off when i change first to second...... after that nothing at all...... just flutter........

im running R33 series 1.5 boost controller and straight pipes with blitz nur spec R tip... so ye stocker

thanks

What do you mean by wastegate breather?

Doubt its your turbo, when the oil seal goes on those it leaks on the exhaust side so it will just make you blow clouds of smoke.

If your cooler piping is full of oil it could be two things.

-If the first motor had signficant damage and it was "breathing" it would of filled up your intercooler and piping with oil. Once they rebuilt the engine they might of cleaned the piping but overlooked the intercooler which may have 500mls of oil pooled inside. So your driving around and the engine is still sucking oil out of the cooler. FIX: Take the cooler and piping off, give it a decent degrease and let it drain for 24hrs.

OR

-Your current engine didnt have a very good rebuild and is breathing hard. By breathing i mean the ventilation hoses coming off the cam covers going to your intake is pouring oil throughout the system. Are you running a catch can? FIX: rebuild engine with correct specs

Basically if it was mine, i would dodge up a little catchcan and connect it straight to the breather hose and drive it around for a day (giving it a bit of stick). If you fill the can up its the engine. If it only has a slight drop or a mist of oil then the oil in the piping is from the old engine so nothing to worry about. If thats the case clean the cooler and piping. Either way definately have a chat to the people that rebuilt the engine and let them know whats going on.

hey....

thanks for the info...... i installed a front mount and after looking at the stock cooler saw that it was filled with oil of about 3 cm from bottom..... after connected everything and starting her up i let the ecu adapt to it and took it for a drive.... runs fkn sick.... not lagging at all.... thanks for that appreciated.......... cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...