Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title says i have a white 97 mod r33 for sale, only done 60000km

The car has medium damage to the front end (hit a tree)

As for the motor it has shifted back around 10cm, to be honest i havnt looked if the water pump has gone trough the block

but doesnt look like the cam cover has cracked so, im a bit unsure

The good bits

-Tein EDFC coilovers

-Full exaust turbo back

-R34 rims (i think , look like 33gtr rims)

-Toyo R888 semi slicks (2000km old)

-Brass button clutch/lightend flywheel (cost $1800, 1000km old)

-Splitfire coil packs

-300zx twin turbo fuel pump

-Sard fuel pressure reg

-Nardi steering wheel

-V-spec diff (finned cover ?)

-interior very good condition

cant remember the rest

as for the car it is perfect from the front window back (not wrecking the car so please dont ask for parts)

car is located in kirawee (near just jap lol)

No stupid offers please im not desperate for $$

If u have any questions please call me on 0404 092 729

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269598-white-r33-97-wrecked-4000/
Share on other sites

Tell both these dikheds to seek sustenance from a penis.

well think about it sweatheart the engine is pushed back 100mm and that means so is the gearbox so who knows if both are f*kd. they are the most expensive things on the car. the loom would be f*kd which would have fried the ecu. so motor and running gear are pretty much useless. what else on the car is really worth the money???

ive seen an engine move back, crack an engine block as well as crack the bellhousing due to impact.

best thing is to take out ya angle grinder and chop it up and see whats wrong

Edited by sneaky1

I believe that it's quite rude of you to offer 2k

you are in no position to judge the condition of the vehicle until we see pics

2 k is a fairly low baller offer

the mount of parts on the car alone are worth well more than 2k

5 stud conversion, coilovers, splitfires, semi's (engine/gbox if its still in good nic) etc

Edited by DFAULT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...