Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im buying rims soon and want to know wat size to go for, now i really want 18's cos it will look porn, but i plan on doing track work, should i go for 17's ? now i may only see the track 4-5 times a year and the drags a little bit more. are 18's gunna be any worse at all and if so enough to worry about it with the little bit of track work i will do ? my current 17's run 235/45 on the front and 255/40 on the rear i believe, if i go to 18's i assume it will drop to 35 and 40 profiles respectively. is this too low or should i not worry about it ?

p.s. tyres i will be looking at are bridgestone adrenalin/potenza at the moment, havnt looked into that too much yet.

rims will be either rays CE28ns or SSR type F's depending what i can get my hands on first and at the best price

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270642-best-tyre-profile-for-32-gtst/
Share on other sites

keep with 17's, personally i think 17's look better on 32's.

but yes, technically if u wanted to keep close to the same dimensions ud have to go a 235/40 and 255/35, but tbh 255/35 isnt a very common size, u might be better off going a 255/40.

btw nice choice in rims, good to see people considering SSR's, great wheel.

I went from 17" to 18" on my 32gtst, running 235/18/40 all round and while there is slightly less traction, turn in is a lot nicer.

out of interest was that back to back with the same tyres (brand/model) and setup?

sounds about right tho.

out of interest was that back to back with the same tyres (brand/model) and setup?

sounds about right tho.

Yup same brand/model (Federal 595SS's), old size was 225/45/17 on front and 235/45/17 on back, to 235/40/18 all round. Nothing in the suspension setup was changed either.

Definitely feels more "pointable" if that makes sense (I know it's not a real word :D).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...