Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have got a set of standard R34 GT coupe wheels

205/55/16

2 Rims have Yokohamas

2 Rims have bridgestone

Fronts are as new

Rears are still very good

Asking 300 O.n.o

Located in brighton melb

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270668-standard-r34-gt-rims-and-tyre/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

average condition for a 10 year old set of rims

no buckles cracks on the rims

only damage to rims is light gutter rash

Front two tyres are good with good brand althogh have camber wear

rear 2 have tread although they are worn a bit.

let me know if yours interested.

look great on 32s and 33s

hey bud as discussed when i came to look at them i dont think the tryes are any good they would not pass roady my offer of $150 is still there. up to you if ya wanna sell them quickly give me a tingle on 0401484707 cheers otherwise good luck

benzino no pics, they are the standard R34 GT wheels that everyone has

If you look closely some have gutter rash

from distance they look fine

the standard silvery grey colour

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...