Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at replacing my old system(its not original either) , with nothing flash but a slight upgrade.

So.. I want it to sound nice but dont want to spend alot. And it has to take USB mp3s, as I dont use cds anymore.

Thoughts were spending $200-$300 on a nice head set (with usb) thats grunty enough not to need a amp. And using jaycar 6.5 kevlars coaxils front and rear. I was going to put some sound deadner in the doors and not worry about a sub.

Are the original speaker wires ok or is it worth the upgrade? And is a amp really worth the $$$

Those of you that have already done systems in 2 door r33's i appriecate any ideas and comments.

Esp head set and speakers selection.

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271513-modest-sound-system-for-r33/
Share on other sites

I don't own a 33, but I did my system in my 32GTR and its a pretty descent setup.

I think most of the headunit can drive about 50w each channel (4 speakers).

Cheapest and quickest option would be to get any name brand headunit with USB MP3...etc and wire it up using the stock wiring. You should be able to just use the factory wiring and the HU can drive the front and rear no problem. Then get dynamat extreme and deaden both doors and the rear passenger area (under the B/C pillar trim). The only complicated part would be to make the speaker adaptor for the doors.

To go a bit better, get a descent HU with at least 2v RCA pre-out for front, rear and sub, for future proofing. If you want to get an external amp (a descent one), which you might as well do everything else and install a sub.

Hunt around eBay and the FS section in this forum, some of the used sound gear come up cheap and you'll save a bit of money going 2nd hand.

Oh and can I buy a single plastic DIN filler from any shop or do I have to go to Nissan?

You mean you have a spare din not in use? Just get a single din pocket and put it in there. Most audio shops like Ryda stocks them. Does not has to be nissan.

Edited by __PhaseShiftDown
  • 2 weeks later...

So far Ive bought and installed a Pioneer usb head (thanks to jb's sales) and the jaycar 6.5 kevlar's just in the front.

Got the blank DIN and jap ariel adaptor from autobarn.

I got the 6.5s to fit with the door standard speaker mounts(with a bit of moding), and drilled the door plug to pull the cable thru.

Sound really good, still want to put put the jaycars on the back and maybe put some deadener in the door.

thanks for the advice guys.

Stock speaker wires should be ok, and sound deadener in the doors will definitely improve the bass. Try and seal the door enclosure with some rubber or similar material from Bunnings etc - cheap and works a treat!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...