Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got a new sub and im looking for an amp powerfull enough to give the sub max power, its a jaycar response 250wrms subby. At the moment i have a shitbox boss 1000w Amp powering my 6x9's and sub(bridged) What would be a good amp to buy without spending much. Im on a limited budget :D

What price ranges can i expect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27182-hey-guys/
Share on other sites

Theres a top-of-the-line jaycar 350w rms (@ 4 ohm) monoblock amp (for subs) thats around $400 (less if you shop around). For a new amp, that comes with lots of options including a remote for bass control, thats pretty darn good. If you can get it for $300 or so i'd highly recommend it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27182-hey-guys/#findComment-572187
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Fhrx

They retail at $299.

I do them for forum buddies for around $256. :(

Fhrx, i've got 1 little problem though..

At the moment i have 1 1000watt boss amp, and 1 500watt kenwood amp. The kenwood amp is only powering my crossovers (using 2 channels, i think) and the boss amp is powering my sub and 6x9's. What would you recommend i do?

a) Take the 500watt kenwood amp out, buy a 2channel Audison to power my sub, and use the boss to power 6x9's and fronts?

B) Throw the boss away and use the kenwood for 6x9's and fronts?

Would the gain in sound be worth the money i would spend to get another amp? I've also got to consider installation fee's because i have no idea on how to wire an amp :(

Say i did buy the Audison amp, would u be able to wire the stuff up for me? Let me know, because i will be doing something about my setup in the next few months..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27182-hey-guys/#findComment-573552
Share on other sites

Audison SRx2 Two Channel Amplifier

Ideal for factory sound systems, SRx 2 insures uncommon functionality and performances.

65w RMS x 2 (4 Ohms) - 85w RMS x 2 (2 Ohms) - 170w RMS x 1 (4 Ohms)

that would be around the same amount my boss amp is powering, have i got the right info?

If thats the case, there wouldnt be much of an increase? Someone correct me if im wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27182-hey-guys/#findComment-573554
Share on other sites

Boss 1000watt and Kenwood 500 watt? Remember one thing you have to realise that those amps are only outputting a fraction of their quoted power. A serious 1000 watt amp will be nearly a meter long usually.

Disciple, are you open to suggestions regarding your system dude? If you don't mind me saying, this is what I'd suggest you do.

1. Put the $300 to one side.

2. Sell both your existing amplifiers.

3. Buy a single quality powerful amplifier (something like an Audison SRx3).

4. Run your fronts and sub with the above amp ( 75 RMS to each from and 250 RMS to the sub).

5. Run the rears off your deck.

There you go. Once you have thrown in some sound deadening to strenghen up the front stage sound and quality cable to interconnect the entire thing, you'll have a beautifuly crisp sounding clean system that can blow your head off every now and again. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27182-hey-guys/#findComment-573889
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...