Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanx Gary...

Quite interesting. Good to see the examples.

I will be working power out a little different in the future.

I assumed that when you make more power, more of a load is placed on the bearings there for it is harder for them to turn which results in friction then more heat. :P

Thanks.. :)

Back to the origional question..

nemz when I had the Blitz SBC-ID boost controller it had a digital PSI readout that was 100% accurate according to RPM's Dyno Dynamics.

When the standard boost guage needle was just touching the 0 boost like (still underneath it though) that was when the EBC would read 0 psi boost. When the dash guage was on the +7 line smack over it the EBC would read 14.5psi.

So the dash guage is a little out but not to bad.

Having boost on 1 bar had the needle nudging just over the +7 line. 16psi and you could see black between the needle and the +7 line.

With regards to your question if R32 stockies can spin the wheels when changing back at 100km/h the answer is no.. With 205's I could wheel spin all of first, second click third and things would start to get a bit hairy as the arse end would sway around as you approach 120km/h. 225's won't spin third. I can drop it back at 60km/h and spin up second however its not a smooth change its a drop back with a bit of a rev change.

On stock boost with my 100mm CAI in to the stock air box, 3" exhaust from turbo back and bar and plate FMIC i make 10.9psi which has the dash needle under the + sign of the 7. You can see the whole + sign then the needle sitting under it.

With a bleeder installed with its restrictor it bumps boost up to around 12-12.5psi with the bleeder wound all the way in.

Hi guys just to clarify...

14.7 PSI = 1 Bar = 7.5 on the gauge

13.2 PSI = 0.9 Bar = 6.8 on the gauge

11.8 PSI = 0.8 Bar = 6.0 on the gauge

10.3 PSI = 0.7 Bar = 5.3 on the gauge

8.8 PSI = 0.6 Bar = 4.5 on the gauge

7.4 PSI = 0.5 Bar = 3.8 on the gauge

5.9 PSI = 0.4 Bar = 3.0 on the gauge

4.4 PSI = 0.3 Bar = 2.3 on the gauge

2.9 PSI = 0.2 Bar = 1.5 on the gauge

1.5 PSI = 0.1 Bar = 0.8 on the gauge

So 7 on the standard GTST gauge = 13.7 PSI.

Hope that helps

Now you are testing me Steve, from memory 660 mm mercury = 0.88 bar. So 7 (x100mmHg) = 0.933 bar or 13.7 psi. Next time I see a standard R32 gauge I will check, we use aftermarket gauges.

I better fix that previous post for R33's in the mean time.

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...