Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One other thing I forgot to mention is that you might be pumping too much fuel for the regulator to flow and properly regulate the pressure for. I hope your using something like an SX billet reg that uses -6 fittings, and not some pissy sard regulator.

wen the pumps makes there noises the car isnt even started its wen i just arc out the relay to make them pump aka first thing no heat involved. i got rid of the fpcm because im using a gtst harness with a gtr computer was just a cheaper option with the conversion ive done, to much hassle to make it work just run to ground etc. both pumps have a one way valve infront of them. im not a f**kin idiot so dont treat me like one..... and no i have a turbosmart fpr1200 with -6 in and -6 out....

im not a f**kin idiot so dont treat me like one..... and no i have a turbosmart fpr1200 with -6 in and -6 out....

Wow such a friendly guy, and when I was just thinking about digging out the schematic for the FPCM wiring.

Good luck with your problem.

ive got the schematic i dont wanna run it thnx neways GTRNUR.... im just asking has neone had a similiar problem with joining 2 pumps into a y piece then into a 1/2inch (-8) fuel line christ ppl is it really that hard of thing understand..... this is the reason y i never post question on this site cuz i get f**kin stupid replies and no information.... may aswell just bang my head against the f**kin keyboard..

Edited by skylinekid

i tend to agree with SirRace, GT-RZ & GTRNUR...u wont get your answer on this thread - sometimes these things get outa control! the joy of forums :action-smiley-069:

the reason u wont get your answer i think is because nobody has 'hands on' experience with running 2 044's on 1 line hence diagnosing your problem is anyones guess

i went ahead a ran two line one for each pump same thing..... only when both pumps are on and the fuel pressure actually increases when the 2nd pump is switched one.... i had it sitting at 40 just for test purposes and when i switched on the other pump it just to about 45..... also the noise will go away wen i decrease the fuel pressure down to 30 and below psi..... wat do u guys reckon? im stumped now.... it also stats to get pulsations when the pressure is turned up thinking maby that the fuel damper may be a needed item

Seems the turbosmart reg cant flow enough fuel, so the spring is oscilating and causing the pulsation. You could try running the largest return line size you can get, and just have it return into a drum for testing, save you runing new lines on the car. If that fixes it then fit a larger, or 2nd fuel return line. Failing that try a diferent regulator. Ive used the aeromotive billet regs with success, identical design to the SX regs.

but how could i really flow nemore then wat can come out of the single -6 from the centre of the rail..... im gonna wait till the car is started and see if the noise is still apparent with the car actually using sum juice

all figures point to that and i dont wanna have to fork out for another reg..... and these things are rated for 800+hp of flow..... the sx regs are $395 and they claim they also help as a fuel damper to stop chatter.... but ill still be running a -6 line so wont this still have the same effect?

im not bad mouthing the reg yet cuz thats the last thing i wanna change..... could it be that the -6 line just wont flow enough therefore will increase the pressure itself due to being a restriction?

plus also wat i didnt mention is the reg has 2 inlets but im only using one.....

Edited by skylinekid

yep, easy fix would be to stage the second pump to come on arount 10 psi boost. The increased rail pressure reducing the pump flow combined with the fuel demand from the injectors will significantly reduce the flow through the reg

Edited by Adriano

yeh thats the problem i havent wired them up this way.... i just have the 2nd pump on a switch so when i feel im gonna stand on the throttle on the higher boost levels i just flick it on and then wen just cruising round just leave the one running as to keep the fuel temps down... or try neways. i dont have a fpcm running the pumps so i cant wire it in through that either.

Your using an R33 GTR PFC right? The output signals from that ecu should still be able to be used to control a second pump. Sure you wont have the FPCM, but you wont be needing one anyway. Basicly they are a solid state (transisitor/mosfet) relay anyway... If you have an R33 GTR circuit diagram its pretty easy to trace the wiring back to what pin on the ecu you need to steal a signal from.

yeh i got all the wiring diagrams etc.... all sounds good in theory but how would i program it to kick in and out etc

plus the part that i just cant seem to understand is wen i have both pumps on if i wind the pressure back down below 30psi it doesnt make the sound...... nethin above the noise comes back.... as if a damper is needed....

Edited by skylinekid
wen the pumps makes there noises the car isnt even started its wen i just arc out the relay to make them pump aka first thing no heat involved. i got rid of the fpcm because im using a gtst harness with a gtr computer was just a cheaper option with the conversion ive done, to much hassle to make it work just run to ground etc. both pumps have a one way valve infront of them. im not a f**kin idiot so dont treat me like one..... and no i have a turbosmart fpr1200 with -6 in and -6 out....

you may not be a f**kin idiot but u seem to be a f**king wanker!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...