Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats the problem.

It stays rich with it on or off, it does not make a difference.

As far as i can tell o2(1) is ok

I would just like to know if o2(2) is supposed to cycle as well or remain constant.

Thanks.

Ah... sorry i misunderstood. No they are both supposed to change. You definatly have a dead 2nd o2 sensor.

Some widebands setups output a simulated narrowband output too. You might be able to wire that to the ecu instead of replacing your dead sensor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272627-rb26-afr/page/2/#findComment-4637141
Share on other sites

I use the AEM uego wideband which i think has the output but i'm using the stock ecu. I only hooked up the pfc to read the O2 voltages (borrowed from a friend).

One other thing i noticed was when i gave it a quick rev to 2000rpm the air flow voltages will go up to about the same amount but AF2 will drop off before AF1, and will go to about 0.2v and then climb back to meet AF2 at about 0.9v where two of them remain steady.

The two air flows are clean and i am using the stock air box at the moment.

Could some one else give me their opinion on the O2(2) sensor remaining constant? And which one the pfc takes as the O2(2) sensor the front or the back?

Thanks again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272627-rb26-afr/page/2/#findComment-4637830
Share on other sites

Yea already have that info. thanks anyways.

I also noticed from the manual the front o2 sensor suppose to cycle between 0-1v and the rear in P or N range 0v and other than P or N range 4-5v

So i guess i should be looking for a voltage fluctuation between 4-5v ????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272627-rb26-afr/page/2/#findComment-4639879
Share on other sites

Well changed th o2 sensor today using a rb25det sensor, it was a direct plug in for the rear sensor on r33 rb26 just the wire on the sensor is shorter so i had to reroute the harness...no biggie though.

Anyway my ratios now look as they should- Idle at 14.7-15.3 an when i hold it at 2000rpm it cycles between 14.7- 15.7

So i guess i would be looking forward to some improved fuel economy :D

Thanks for all the help guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272627-rb26-afr/page/2/#findComment-4641283
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...